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By nicelegs
From Denver
Feb 11, 2014

Chris, thanks for taking the high road here.

That bolt you just posted just dropped in. Are they somewhat undersized to do this? Normally I tap bolts in with a hammer. I've only ever had them drop in like that on crappy rock and the rotten brick in my garage.

My record was 17 shitty hardware store bolts that I removed and pounded flush once the glue ins were set. RB's tend not to work because they like to make themselves permanent. This could have really helped me 5 years ago. If I ever live next to a sea cave again, I'll definitely use these as my directionals to set the glue ins from.


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By Chris Vinson
Feb 11, 2014

Locker I'll post more stats once we go to production. For now, i can tell you that they are similar to a powerbolt, sorry man.

No hammer needed during installation, this does make installation a bit trickier because the cone must but snugged up against the sleeve or the bolt will spin when you torque the bolt down.

This is how a route is bolted with RBs and Legacy bolts, awesome when the routes are overhung. Nicelegs i bet you had the older ones that didn't have a cleaning bushing yet?



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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Feb 11, 2014
...

"Locker I'll post more stats once we go to production"

Got it and AOK! Very much look forward to seeing this progress. Pretty fucking cool the way they're so easily removed.

One hell of a neat improvement.


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By John Greer Jr.
From modesto, ca
Feb 11, 2014

Sick day activities to keep the stoke.
Sick day activities to keep the stoke.


Gratuitous bolt supply posting...

Great reading here for anyone looking to know more about the process and materials.

Now if only i could get more time off from the salt mines...


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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Feb 11, 2014
...

^^^

How many of those have since been placed and do you believe in "Runnouts" or tightly bolted "Sport" routes?

Just wondering. Not looking for ammo to insult.

;-)


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By nicelegs
From Denver
Feb 11, 2014

Chris Vinson wrote:
Nicelegs i bet you had the older ones that didn't have a cleaning bushing yet?


I used 3/8" X 1 1/4" mild steel weak ass sleeve bolts. At a few cents each and to only be used for a few days, they worked. The cave was close to horizontal for nearly 40 feet and almost always steeper than 45. I actually used the bolts as anchor points for a series of rebelays rather than pure directionals for the drilling. There were a couple key spots where I could tie a beefy thread or a section of harder rock where I'd put a powers. It was still a bit terrifying calculating the swing potential if those bolts blew.


In all, only one blew and I didn't swing since my hook was in contact when it happened.


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By Chris Vinson
Feb 11, 2014

nicelegs wrote:
I actually used the bolts as anchor points for a series of rebelays rather than pure directionals for the drilling.


Sweet. What you described is basically how we've been bolting roofs on lead, with 1/2" RBs instead of plated bolts. Patch the holes and it leaves virtually nothing other than some camo'd putty in the cliff.

Check out the rack.


bolting rack
bolting rack


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