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bolts at lower leda

Original Post
eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525

I was climbing at lower leda today and i noticed that some of the anchor bolts had hangers where the spine was oriented weirdly. the spines were oriented perpendicular to the direction of a fall rather than relatively parallel. I was taught that they were supposed to be parallel to the direction of fall. at best, it makes it difficult to fit the carabiner through the hanger and at worse, i was taught it could potentially break the hanger. are they supposed to be like this?

Chuck Parks · · Atlanta, GA · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 2,190

Some hangers are designed to be oriented horizontally, so it could be that. In particular, the top anchors with rap rings are often that way.

Horizontal anchor with rap ring.

More likely though, what you encountered was a bolt off to the side of the general line the rope takes. When people get to the top and lower off, the rope tension pulls sideways on the hanger and rotates it toward the direction of pull.

Sometimes when you encounter those, you can grab them with your fingers and rotate them back prior to clipping them. Other times they'll be torqued too tight to move by hand. In that case, just clip it and go. If you end up whipping on it, that should provide the necessary torque to rotate it back to the correct orientation!

eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525

it was only the anchor bolts so my guess is that they were something like those. still, i don't really like em cause i had to clip the ring a couple of times because i couldn't fit a biner through the hanger without the gate opening on the rock.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
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