Bolton Area 

I was just up at Bolton this weekend and wanted to let everyone know that the road that Upper and Lower West Bolton climbs are off of is called Notch Rd NOT Bolton Access Rd or Bolton Mountain Rd. Happy climbing.

It's about time we started adding some of our home grown Vermont routes/boulders into this web site. So many great routes and bouldering in the Bolton area as well as Marshfield ledge, The Notch, Groton and Mt. Wheeler - how come we don't have more Green Mountain rock climbing/bouldering listed here? Seriously, there are plenty of low quality crags and bouldering spots in other states that I hear about and see listed on Mountain Project and other climbing sites/media all the time (I'll keep my lips sealed on them for the moment). Arguably I am being a hypocrite since I could add them myself but I wouldn't want to steal the opportunity from another Vermont climber....

Specifically I am thinking of the 82 Crag, Carcass Crag, Bolton Quarry (which has some great new lines), Marshfield Ledge, Owl's Head, Mt. Wheeler

I think, because of sensitive access issues, at least one of the areas you mentioned (Carcass) shouldn't be added to the database just yet. The 82 Crag, Bolton Quarry (eh-hem, choss pile!!), Wheeler Mt., etc., etc. should be added to MP so long as there are no limiting circumstances that would otherwise tarnish VT's street cred. And I think you're the perfect suitor for this job, Colin!!

Chris,

I agree with you about the access sensitive area. I also agree that i am probably the best candidate to add these new areas/route (I am lazy however, only good at quippy comments). I disagree that the Quarry is a choss pile. Well, technically yes, most of it is but the truly chossy parts don't have any routes on them anyways. The Cat's Ass Wall and the first left-hand wall in the main quarry are both bullet hard, non-quarried schist all with good, short-but-stout sport climbing. Even some of the quarried rock has good climbing (There is a great 11a in the back there). 82 Crag is sick and is good as any wall at Rumney (just not as much of it or as condensed). Believe me, I used to laugh at the idea of placing Bolton up there with Rumney but I have since come around mostly due to the lack of crowds and some of the great new lines that have gone up (I am not smoking anything I swear!). Rumney has turned into an outdoor gym (too many climbers, too few routes) and I am way too much of a climbing hermit these days. Marshfield and Wheeler are also stellar crags but I am not as familiar with them. And then there is the bouldering which is as good as anywhere you'll find in New England imo (if you know where you are going). Viva La Ver-Mont!

Added most of the good Bolton Quarry routes, 82 crag is next...

Looks like you have everything in Vermont covered. Not much more to add.

There's plenty more to add actually. Just can't do it all myself. I hope others contribute a bit too. Some areas that I would like to see routes/boulders added are:

Marshfield Ledge - Routes
Mt. Wheeler - Routes and Bouldering
Groton State Park - Bouldering and Routes at Owl's Head
Smuggler's Notch - Routes and Bouldering
Jamaica State Park (southern VT) - Bouldering

Climbing in Vermont is growing but I think we can manage it if we give folks a heads up on access issues and what not on here.

Sensitive access areas should not be posted.

"Looks like you have everything in Vermont covered. Not much more to add."--David Powers

Don't worry, David, Wheeler probably won't make it up here, anyway...it's way too chossy to warrant any attention anyway...(haha!)

Hi Chris, Part of me does not care but the other part loves the adventure climbing aspect. In a previous post you mentioned splitter cracks at this chossy place. Did you find Eagle Point crag? It sounded like you got around the place a bit.
If you or Colin have any bouldering FA info i would like to get it for record keeping.

David,

I agree with you. When it boils down to it, I don't really care one way or the other. Wheeler and the outlaying areas are, however, one of the best kept secrets in NE, without a doubt. Last time I was up there was about 2 years ago, and. upon your earlier recommendation, I did make it up to Eagle Point Buttress. We climbed the Eagle Point Crack, as well as TRing Hot Seat. Both phenomenal lines up some of the best granite around. I did not, however, make it up to the buttress (?) above the Kingdom Crack area. Next time...

hey!
I live in Plainfield, right next to Marshfield, and I'm looking for someone who knows about bouldering near the ledges to let me know what's actually there. I am also interested in doing some more exploring in the groton/Lord's Hill area to find some more boulders. My daughter and I frequent a sweet little boulder in Marshfield,...there has to be more!
-amy

Would be good to add new material here. Upper & Lower West as well have relatively few routes while Upper East has nothing. I noticed someone put up Carcass Crag (again). Hopefully it wont be taken down again unless there are access issues. Also, there is still more stuff up at 82 Crag plus. Chris, you know this area as well as anyone. I'll add more stuff soon as I can.

One other thing I think would be good is for folks to suggest grades as well. There are some routes at Bolton that are pretty sandbagged in my opinion and I am curious what other folks think. Sandbagging is to be expected to a degree in Vermont but I think we should also try to keep it within reason. I can think of at least 5 routes that I feel should be upgraded (some by more than one letter grade) where as I only know of one route in the area that I would recommend being downgraded. I could name some obvious routes but would rather wait and hear feedback from others.

Can anyone point me in the right direction for bouldering at Bolton?
-Halley

If no one objects, I'd like to put up a page for Wheeler Mt. I want to make sure that there isn't a strong outcry to keep the cliff a secret, though. Also, if someone knows more about the area, they should post it; I climbed The Great Dihedral on minimum beta and don't know anything else about the area. I just thought it was an amazing route and cliff and would like to pass the experience on.