Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Area 37
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Walk in the Park 
A37 Crack Route 
Bag of Sand 
Balance of Power, The 
Bizarre Ritual 
Bolting The Molting 
Branching Out 
Cherry Pickin' 
Cyclic Loader 
Ergo 
Fatigue 
Frosted Mini Wheats 
InBetween, The 
Keardo 
Leprosy 
Los Gastones 
Mini Wheats 
Sending Data 
Stewed Prune 

Bolting The Molting 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 46'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Hagen Telg and Jason Halladay
Page Views: 484
Submitted By: hagne on Jul 11, 2012
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo Add Comment 

Hagen sending the route for the first time, in the...

Description 

Call it molting, ecdysis, shedding or sloughing, the rock on this wall changes form more often than any other wall in the Jemez. In its current stage, after some agressive cleaning recently, the line offers up a bouldery start leading to a pumpy finish with some cool movement in the middle.

Start off in the cupped hole and boulder up to a good crimp and the first clip. Stay tight and crank through the crux to the route's best hold and the second bolt. Some side to side climbing with cool moves leads past the third bolt and to the fourth clip, a fixed chain. Hang on through bigger holds out left past the bulge above and the anchors.

The fixed chain on the fourth bolt not only allows for an easier clip but primarily serves to keep the lowering climber out of the two young aspens growing at the base of the route. The climber should clip his/her rope through this fixed chain while lowering to stay closer to the wall and keep the aspens from getting beat up.


Protection 

Four bolts to a bolts/chain anchor with lowering biners.


Location 

Starts 5 feet to the right of The Balance of Power.



Photos of Bolting The Molting Slideshow Add Photo
Molting grips.
Molting grips.
Comments on Bolting The Molting Add Comment
Show which comments
By Heath Bailey
Apr 1, 2013

Cool route with a fun and bouldery beginning, not unlike the nature of the 5.11 routes to its left. Definitely a nice addition to the cliff.