Bolting The Molting  5.12a

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Type:  Sport, 46 feet Consensus:  5.12a [details] FA:  Hagen Telg and Jason Halladay New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  hagne on Jul 11, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Hagen sending the route for the first time, in the...

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Description 

Call it molting, ecdysis, shedding or sloughing, the rock on this wall changes form more often than any other wall in the Jemez. In its current stage, after some agressive cleaning recently, the line offers up a bouldery start leading to a pumpy finish with some cool movement in the middle.

Start off in the cupped hole and boulder up to a good crimp and the first clip. Stay tight and crank through the crux to the route's best hold and the second bolt. Some side to side climbing with cool moves leads past the third bolt and to the fourth clip, a fixed chain. Hang on through bigger holds to the bulge above and the anchors.

The fixed chain on the fourth bolt not only allows for an easier clip but primarily serves to keep the lowering climber out of the two young aspens growing at the base of the route. The climber should clip his/her rope through this fixed chain while lowering to stay closer to the wall and keep the aspens from getting beat up.

Protection 

Four bolts to a bolted anchor with lowering biners.

Location 

Starts 5 feet to the right of The Balance of Power.

Photos of Bolting The Molting Slideshow

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Molting grips.