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Redgarden - Tower Two
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10,000 Leagues T 
After The Gold Rush T 
Avoid the Rush T 
Bolting for Glory T 
Briny Deep, The T 
Cave Pitch T 
Centaur T,S 
Contest, The S 
Diving Board, The T 
Dizzy Miss Lizzy (aka Scrutiny on the Bounty) S 
Fools Learn TR 
Genius Loci S 
Ghoul's Turn T,TR 
Green Willow Wall T,S 
Inset, The T 
Jules Verne T 
Jules Verne Straight Up First Pitch Variation T 
King Tut T 
Le Void T 
Lene's Dream T 
Love Minus Zero T 
Naked Edge, The T 
No Lo Contendere T,S,TR 
Old Bad Aid Crack T 
One Way Out T 
Orifophobia T 
Plastic Jesus T 
Predator T,S 
PsychGillLogical T 
Rise Above, aka Mr. Malcontent T,S 
Rosy Crucifixion T 
Scratch and Sniff T,S,TR 
Seams Beyond T 
Seize of Holds T 
Serpent, The T 
Shasta T 
Sickness Unto Death S 
Slots of Fun T 
Slow Train Coming T,S 
Superlink, The T 
T2 T 
T2 Direct Finish T 
Touch 'N' Go T 
Weeping Willow T 
Wild Kingdom T,S 
Wingless Victory S 

Bolting for Glory 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Andrea Azoff and Richard Rossiter, 1988
Fixed Hardware: 4 Lead Bolts [details]
Page Views: 2,766
Submitted By: Kristo torgersen on May 15, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (71)
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Bob Siegrist clips the 4th bolt on Bolting For Glo...
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  • Description 

    This excellent finish to Touch 'N' Go breaks off right at the ledge at half height and ascends the smooth face to the right of the Touch 'N' Go's upper section. Start as for Touch 'N' Go, going up and left below the initial overhang and straight up a right facing corner into a slot that turn into a nice finger crack to a ledge. this climbing is no harder than 5.8 and is very accepting of gear. Bolting for Glory goes up and right from the ledge.

    The initial moves up to the first bolt are not too difficult, but can be intimidating with a ledge fall possible. Move up and right after the first bolt on smooth dark edges past two more bolts to a horizontal break (the 10a crux is just below this break and well protected by the bolt). Just above this break a handle grip formed by two interconnected huecos can be slung with a standard length runner. Move up and left past a fourth bolt to a leftward move around a bulging corner to finish at the Touch 'N' Go's anchors.

    The route is great climbing on sweet edges and a great variation to the ever-popular Touch 'N' Go. Being south-facing and the rock dark colored in nature, the climb can get very hot during the summertime making the holds slicker than they have to be. It's best climbed in the fall or spring (or shade!).


    Protection 

    Bring a standard rack for the first half of Touch 'N' Go, and then for the Bolting for Glory finish you will need 4 quickdraws (4 bolts) and several standard length runners for a slung hole and the bolt anchors.



    Photos of Bolting for Glory Slideshow Add Photo
    Photo and belay by Joey Thompson...he can  <br />multitask...
    Photo and belay by Joey Thompson...he can
    multita...
    Eldorado Canyon. Isaac Therneau on Bolting for Glory. November '08.
    Eldorado Canyon. Isaac Therneau on Bolting for Glo...
    Comments on Bolting for Glory Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 7, 2013
    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Mar 7, 2002

    The holds are getting slicker as the years go by....

    By Ben Mottinger
    Founding Father
    Sep 19, 2002
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    A green (#2) Splitter cam is useful for the pull over the edge after the 4th bolt. Not necessary, but feels more secure.

    The rating seems right for the crux at the 3rd bolt.

    By Mike McKinnon
    From: Golden, CO
    Oct 27, 2003

    Great route! The first bolt is spinning on its hanger! The rest are in good condition. Bring a sling to sling a hole between the fourth and fifth bolts. I was not sure how to finish the climb but I swung over the dihedral and joined Touch and Go [before the] bolts.

    By Ashleigh Bilodeaux
    Jun 10, 2004
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    This route was great! The start is a little stiff, or at least it was for me, but over all it was good. Good crimps toward the top and lots of good route finding. I would recommed this at the route to take if trying to get to the first pitch of the naked edge.

    By Chris Klinga
    Jun 22, 2004
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    This was a great route, it got me thinking more than most 10a's. Maybe thats just me though. The edges felt slick and not very secure but the moves are all at the 10a level, just intimidating. As for a crux I thought it wasn't definitivly at the 3rd bolt but throughout because of the lack of security in the footholds. Also, beware the first bolt hanger is loose and spinning.

    By Brian Weinstein
    Sep 20, 2004
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Yeah, the first hanger is still loose but felt safe nonetheless. Really nice pitch and recommended for variety after P1 of Touch and Go.

    By Michael Amato
    Nov 5, 2004

    Excellent moves past four well placed bolts, though the polished and somewhat greasy holds made this feel a bit harder than 5.10a to me. The first hanger still spins.

    By Bo Johnston
    Oct 17, 2005
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    I never saw a bolt after the hueco hole that you sling... I kinda climbed up and left to the anchors. Hmmm...

    By Eric Goltz
    From: Boulder, CO
    Nov 19, 2005
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Nice route, more direct than the second half of T&G, kind of slippery. There's definitely a bolt past the hueco.

    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jun 3, 2007
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    It is not getting any less slick. Time for an up-grade on the rating if it is a warm day. I soloed this thing in 1995 on my way up to The Naked Edge. These days I am more likely to fall off of this than The Edge itself.

    By Alan Searcy
    From: Pine, Colorado
    Jun 7, 2007
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Yep, pretty slick in all the hard spots making it seem like one of the harder 10a's the other day. Mebbe someone's greasing up the holds with spray on Pam cooking oil. Replacing those twenty year old bolts would probably be timely. If the first spinner blows, you will definitely eat the ledge, that would suck.

    By Paul Hunnicutt
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 9, 2007
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Yes it's still slippery. Weird to be clipping bolts in Eldo. Fun, short route.

    By KCP
    From: Eldorado Springs, CO
    Oct 14, 2007
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    This route was slippery the first time I did it in 1991, and feels the same every time since. 10a feels spot on. Every route feels harder in the sun.

    By mtoensing
    From: Boulder
    May 1, 2012
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    This route consists of 4 SMC bolts. I think that the hardware could be upgraded and should be upgraded.

    By Steve Annecone
    From: boulder
    May 1, 2012

    Matt, please feel free to submit an app to the Park and replace those old bolts. The system relies on people like you to get those bolts upgraded, and the routes that could use it are endless.

    By Mike McHugh
    Jan 7, 2013

    Hardware replaced 6/14/2012 - 4.75" x 0.5" Powers 5-piece + Fixe hangers. Go git 'r done.

    By Bruce Hildenbrand
    Jan 7, 2013

    Stainless steel?

    By Mike McHugh
    Jan 7, 2013

    Plated 5-piece Powers with SS hangers. Will go back up there and replace the PS with SS sometime in 2013. It sounds like the PS/SS mix should have a pretty long lifetime, but I'd rather get it right sooner.