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Bolting Disco Inferno in Zion
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By steven sadler
From SLC, UT
Feb 12, 2013
Before I get ripped into about bolting an already existing route, I have been talking to Calder (first ascentionist)and he's actually supplying the bolts for this.

I haven't done the route before but all the holes are blown out from hooking and the route is now a scary undertaking. Calder doesn't want anyone getting hurt on his route so I'm heading up there in the middle of march to drill the holes out and put in 1/2" bolts and hangers. Does anyone who's been up there or knows a little bit about the route have any advice or recommendations? For example, I'd like to climb a pitch then rap back down and bolt it. this would be much easier than bolting on lead. However, with the blown out holes this gets a little difficult. should I just bring a cheat stick? how long does it need to be? Drilling out the same hole to 1/2" might be a problem because the bottom of the holes are blown out. Will this be a problem? Also someone told me to place a bolt in the rotten roof but seems to me, from searching the internet, that this wouldn't be necessary.

Thanks in advance for any advice

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By steven sadler
From SLC, UT
Mar 18, 2013
Well thanks to every ones help (sarcasm) Disco Inferno now has nice new shiny bolts up the bolt ladder pitch (pitch 5). Go get on it!

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By NYclimber085
From la verkin ut
Mar 18, 2013
Thanks alot man!!!!!!!!! I am a local (20 mins. from the park). I will do my best to get on it this spring. It is a gift to the climbing community. By the way how was the route?

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By Benjamin Chapman
From Small Town, USA
Mar 18, 2013
old 1/4" bolt.
Steven.....thanks for the effort, but why leave a long line of shiny bolts? Why not camouflage the equipment while you were at it?

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By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 19, 2013
Andrew Gram
Why bother? Bolts that high up won't be visible to anyone that isn't up there anyway.

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By Stevie Nacho
From Utah
Mar 19, 2013
Good work Steven,

I did a one day ascent of this with Calder years ago and remember him wishing bolts getting fixed. That section was the only junky section of the route.

Cheers,

tda

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By BScallout
Mar 19, 2013
Benjamin why are you always pissing on people's parade? Maybe it's the Cali living. Please STFU. WTF have YOU done for the community. Please feel free to post it here.

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By Benjamin Chapman
From Small Town, USA
Mar 19, 2013
old 1/4" bolt.
BS.....aren't you just the ray of sunshine! Why get so defensive and stressed over a simple question regarding the environmentally sensitive & responsible concept of camouflaging a line of bolts? Regardless of where the bolts are, an attempt could be made to match the surrounding rock. Why give the NPS an opportunity and/or leverage for more rules regarding bolts. Thanks, again, Steven, for your hard work.

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By BScallout
Mar 19, 2013
Benjamin Chapman wrote:
BS.....aren't you just the ray of sunshine!


This is the pot calling the kettle black. Why are you always questioning other peoples actions? IE: Big Bend Boulder chalk comments and numerous other wanking comments on your part. Still waiting for you to post all the hard work you do for the climbing community so we can dissect your every move.

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By Benjamin Chapman
From Small Town, USA
Mar 20, 2013
old 1/4" bolt.
BS......Off Topic. Need some attention...get a puppy. As for contributions, cash your 21 MP points in and get a mirror. Again, really glad Steven put in the effort to upgrade the route. Thanks.

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By steven sadler
From SLC, UT
Mar 20, 2013
The route is really good and I remember thinking it was... adventurous I guess would be the word to describe it. the free climbing isn't straight forward (lots of tension/pendulum traverses) which could either be a good thing or bad depending on what you like. I posted a pretty good description of the route on the routes page here on Mt Project.

Also worth noting that I didn't make it above the roof, but the crackes looked freakin awesome up there.

No Camoflauge on the bolts because I have a job and go to school full time. Benjamin, if you want to, go up there with some paint and paint them. It won't matter, it's so high that no one can see Like Andrew said.

Also if you do get on this route let me konw how it is. This was my first time putting up bolts and would like to know if you see something that could've been done better or I should do different next time.

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By jersey
From park city, utah
Mar 25, 2013
zion wall monkey
Andrew Gram
Administrator
6 days ago
Why bother? Bolts that high up won't be visible to anyone that isn't up there anyway.

this is the view of a representative for mountain project, i don't care how high up in the air those bolts are. they are right over the road and and in view of the shuttle and when the light hits them right you can see them a mile away. ALWAY CAMO YOUR BOLTS IN ZION. zion is a very sensitive venue, this isn't the first time some out of towny thought they needed to come hear and screw up a simple job, that should be left for someone more qualified, did you also ad long chain-links to sway in the wind and grind deep grooves into the rock like the a.a.c. bolt replacement on moonlight did.
you think your helping but you might be blowin it.

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By jersey
From park city, utah
Mar 25, 2013
zion wall monkey
and steve mister new at bolting, up on a zion big wall is no place to learn about bolting. next time leave it up to a more experienced climber. so now we have to go fix what ever you half assed

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By Brian in SLC
Mar 25, 2013
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
jersey wrote:
ALWAY CAMO YOUR BOLTS IN ZION.


Concur. If you don't have time, buy the pre-painted ones.

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By Rob Dillon
Mar 25, 2013
It's just not that hard for the next person who goes up there to bring a spray can of brown primer and a milk jug.

It's also a heck of a lot easier to lay all your shiny bolts out on the ground ahead of time and spray them there, if you can't afford the prepainted kind.

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By Brian in SLC
Mar 25, 2013
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
Rob Dillon wrote:
It's just not that hard for the next person who goes up there to bring a spray can of brown primer and a milk jug. It's also a heck of a lot easier to lay all your shiny bolts out on the ground ahead of time and spray them there, if you can't afford the prepainted kind.


Nah, don't do that. Magic marker at the least. Or, get one of those little Testor model paints in camo. Easy, dries fast. Just brush it on. No over spray issues.

Stainless kinda hazes over time to have a dull, non shiny appearance.

Most paints, unless you have the zinc rich stuff that's for a galvanized finish, don't stick to non-stainless bolt hangers. The paint "soapifies". Best to buy them pre-painted. Or, get them powder coated.

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By steven sadler
From SLC, UT
Mar 25, 2013
Yeah I know I may not be the most experienced person out there for the job but this route has had problem with the bolt ladder for years and no one did anything about it. No offence but if everything waited for 'an experienced person' to do it nothing would get done. I know it's different but I have put in hundreds of expansion bolts into concrete so I know how expansion bolts work.

Just get up there and climb it and stop looking for things to criticize. I know it's the internet and everyone has to state their opinions for one reason or another but just get out and climb and enjoy the new bolts. If you want to do the climbing community a favor then bring some paint and thank me later for giving you the opportunity to help out. ha

Enjoy the route and quit bitching so much.

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By Dale Evans
Mar 25, 2013
Thanks for the effort Steven.
Please do not encourage someone to paint the hangers in place.This is a really bad idea. At least not spray paint, please.


Steven said, "No Camoflauge on the bolts because I have a job and go to school full time."

It would have taken less than 3 minutes to paint this hardware before installation so this excuse is lame.If you can afford the hardware and have the time to install it do it right. Take the extra 3 minutes.

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By steven sadler
From SLC, UT
Mar 25, 2013
Dale has an excellent point, if you do paint them bring a brush.

Yes the paint would have taken only a few minutes and if there is a next time I will for sure. As for being able to afford the bolts... I can't. As I stated in the first post, Calder paid for them.

On that topic, is spray paint enough? wouldn't it just wear off quickly?

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By Dan G0D5H411
From Colorado Springs, CO
Mar 25, 2013
Dan on Hurricane
I've found that a good paint job takes a little more than 3 minutes. Start with a self- etching primer, followed by a couple more coats of paint with ample time in between to let the layers fully dry before applying the next. This can take anywhere from a day to 3 days depending upon your drying conditions. The actual work time is minimal seeing as most of the time is spent waiting for coats to dry. Stainless I would worry less about since it already has a duller finish but plated hardware can shine like diamonds in the right conditions.

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By BScallout
Mar 25, 2013
jersey wrote:
and steve mister new at bolting, up on a zion big wall is no place to learn about bolting. next time leave it up to a more experienced climber. so now we have to go fix what ever you half assed


Seriously? How the hell do you know he half-assed it? Have you seen it with your own eyes? Or are you just assuming? You know what happens when you assume right?

Just for clarification you are not the Zion rock police or god. STFU, you only put up one crappy 5.7 that people do laps on b/c it's mostly 5.3 and they can 'tick' a Zion route. And do you live there Jersey?

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By Shiho
Mar 25, 2013
BScallout wrote:
Just for clarification you are not the Zion rock police or god. STFU, you only put up one crappy 5.7 that people do laps on b/c it's mostly 5.3 and they can 'tick' a Zion route. And do you live there Jersey?



No no, he has put up more than one route in Zion. for example --> mountainproject.com/v/the-mega...

And yeah, Led by Sheep is an awesome route with an amazing summit!

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By Brian in SLC
Mar 25, 2013
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
BScallout wrote:
Just for clarification you are not the Zion rock police or god.


Huh. I thought he was.

Ha ha.

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By BScalllout
Jun 4, 2013
Sorry everyone. My mommy and daddy didn't love me enough, hence the reason I lash out at people so long as I can remain completely anonymous. I'm just scared. I didn't mean to be a jerk.

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By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 4, 2013
It is a good sized roof. Photo: Jimbo
Dan G0D5H411 wrote:
I've found that a good paint job takes a little more than 3 minutes. Start with a self- etching primer, followed by a couple more coats of paint with ample time in between to let the layers fully dry before applying the next. This can take anywhere from a day to 3 days depending upon your drying conditions. The actual work time is minimal seeing as most of the time is spent waiting for coats to dry. Stainless I would worry less about since it already has a duller finish but plated hardware can shine like diamonds in the right conditions.


I have painted thousands of bolts and hangers. Really not that hard or time consuming. I try to camo everything to reduce problems with land managers and my own aesthetic. Really bugs me when I see a reflection that I know is an unpainted hanger. You might be surprised how far away you can be and still see the reflection. A standard rescue mirror is about the size of a 3X5 card.

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By kennoyce
From Layton, UT
Jun 4, 2013
Climbing at the Gallery in Red Rocks
Brian in SLC wrote:
Most paints, unless you have the zinc rich stuff that's for a galvanized finish, don't stick to non-stainless bolt hangers. The paint "soapifies". Best to buy them pre-painted. Or, get them powder coated.


Just an FYI, Acrylic Latex spray paint will stick to galvanized hangers (non-stainless), then any other paint will stick to the Acrylic Latex. The cause of the "soapifying" of the paint are the alkyds in the spray paint but acrylic latex is not an alkyd based paint so it will not cause the saponification.

If you want to spray paint non-stainless hangers just spray a coat of acrylic latex paint as the primer, then use your normal spray paint for the finishing coats.

FLAG


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