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Velcro Wall
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Acid Crack T 
Bolted Route S 
Tour De Platte T 

Bolted Route 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
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Page Views: 1,275
Submitted By: Brian Kalet on Apr 17, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: Velcro Wall and Sheeprock summit.

Description 

The Bolted Route is the most southern route on the Velcro Wall on the west face of Sheeprock's summit dome. The lower pitch is the hardest and the crux is found between the 4th and 6th bolts. The entire route is composed of a granite slab with very small but abundant holds.

Location 

The Bolted Route is just north of the large dihedral on the Velcro Wall & just south of Acid Crack.

Protection 

The route can be done in a single pitch with a 70m rope or two pitches with a 60m rope. Ten quickdraws are required if doing a single pitch. 6 are required if breaking the climb into two pitches. There is an intermediate rappel station after the 6th bolt and an upper rappel station. If you want to climb to the summit, untie from the rope and scramble up easy 4th class terrain or belay your partner from the upper rappel station. A 60 m rope is sufficient to reach the summit from the upper rappel station. When rappelling, a 70 m rope will get you from the upper rappel station to the intermediate rappel station, but a 60 m rope will land you one bolt shy of the intermediate rappel station.


Photos of Bolted Route Slideshow Add Photo
Climber on Bolted Route, Velcro Wall on Sheeprock.
Climber on Bolted Route, Velcro Wall on Sheeprock.
Acid Crack left, Bolted Route right (climbers on r...
Acid Crack left, Bolted Route right (climbers on r...
You can see the line of bolts under the climber.
You can see the line of bolts under the climber.
Looking down from the 5th bolt on the 'Bolted Rout...
Looking down from the 5th bolt on the 'Bolted Rout...

Comments on Bolted Route Add Comment
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By Daniel H. Bryant
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 22, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I'm not sure this is the 'Bolted Route', but was the only set of bolts I could find up there on that side of the velcro wall. This route is graded too low in my opinion. I bailed at the 5th bolt on the first pitch, so whoever leads this next can have my carabiner, my gift to you. 'Small but abundant holds', more like 'tiny and just a few'. Don't be like me and let a low rating lure you in, play it safe and be prepared to bail if need be. This route might have been a 5.7+ in the past, but some of the rock flaked off as I tested for holds, so be warned. It felt like a sustained 5.8+ just leading to the crux, which is mostly friction footing with no holds just open grip/palming. The softer and stickier the shoe, the easier this route might be, just an opinion.
By a Ball
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 19, 2013

Would a 65 meter rope be sufficient to rappel down the rap route?

Recently had to chop just less than 5m off my 70.