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Bolted OW sport routes, or OW boulder problems?
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By lady jane
From Boulder, CO
Sep 16, 2012
So, lately I've been super inspired by the Wide Boyz and Pamela Pack (I mean whoa, what a badass.) And I've been thinking I might like to try a little offwidth climbing, just for fun... but I don't see myself investing in any giant pro anytime soon. SO, my question is this: Does anyone know of any OW routes that are bolted for sport climbing? And if that doesn't exist, how about some good beginner OW boulder problems? I live in CO in the Boulder area but would love to know about fun things in any place... Thanks guys!!!

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By BoulderCharles
Sep 16, 2012
You can set up a top rope, with gear, on Huston Crack (mountainproject.com/v/huston-c.... That's a lot of fun and classic OW.

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By Brian Scoggins
From Eugene, OR
Sep 16, 2012
Alternately, Vedauwoo is PACKED with offwidth boulder problems and easily top-roped offwidths (Fantasia is easily toproped after climbing Kim, Orbital Ridge is an alternate start to Skull and requires some true leavittation to go at the posted grade). Squat (5.12b) is bolted, but with old quarter-inchers that pre-date the invention of Big Bros, or even the manufacture of #5 friends.

A few of Shanti's routes might have bolts on them, but they really aren't sport climbs, or bolted with that idea in mind.

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By prod.
From Boulder, Co
Sep 16, 2012
A few entry level routes that will work with up to a #4 Camalot

Avalon 3rd tier Crackland
Mystery Tour mountainproject.com/v/mystery-...
Thus us mountainproject.com/v/thus-us/...

Bolted squeeze chimney Enemy Within mountainproject.com/v/the-enem...

Just did all of these in the past few weeks. Hudson is a good one too.

Prod.

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By lady jane
From Boulder, CO
Sep 16, 2012
Awesome guys, thanks!!! These are all really great, I hadn't thought of setting up a TR, brilliant.

Charles, the Huston crack looks sweet. From reading about the crag, seems like it's pretty easy to just scramble up the side to set a TR.. Sorry if this is a dumb question, but I've never set up a TR on a trad route... what gear would I need? Are there bolts at the top? I'm super psyched to try this route!!

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By prod.
From Boulder, Co
Sep 16, 2012
Hudson would require a gear anchor. I wanna say a #2 camalot and 2 more smaller cams. Can't remember. If you do TR it, make sure to get on Aid Crack, just to the right. 10d tips.

Prod.

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By lady jane
From Boulder, CO
Sep 16, 2012
Ok, yeah I've never set an anchor that way, so I suppose that route will have to wait. Enemy Within looks rad though, I like the idea of a squeeze chimney, cool!!! Do you think it's possible to hike to the top and set a TR with those bolts?

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By prod.
From Boulder, Co
Sep 16, 2012
I don't think you can hike up to that? Not sure, but it can be climbed with 1 or 2 cams, a few nuts and 2 quick draws, then you'd also need draws for the anchor. Then you could TR Thus Us from the same anchors.

Prod.

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By Unassigned User
Sep 16, 2012
Me thinks you need to just go buy some big bros. they are really shiny and super fun to play with!! And the biiger the gear on your harness the cooler you look.

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By Ryan N
From Palo Alto
Sep 16, 2012
RJN
If you really wanna get worked set up a TR on Huston crack. It's humbling to say the least. Offwidth but I remember that there's not much wide gear maybe a 4 or 5? And you can scramble low 5th to set up a TR.

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By Greg D
From Here
Sep 16, 2012
Out of the blue.  Photo by Mike W. <br />
..." If you don't know how to set a SRENE gear anchor, get someone who does to show you."

As if someone could just tell you in a few minutes, maybe over the internet. Come on. Bad advice


Edit because of John and Ted's response below which are a result of a misunderstanding. I was quoting someone that deleted their post. Hence, it may have appeared that I was speaking to the op directly. I was not.

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By RockyMtnTed
Sep 16, 2012
Greg D wrote:
..." If you don't know how to set a SRENE gear anchor, get someone who does to show you." As if someone could just tell you in a few minutes, maybe over the internet. Come on. Bad advice


I don't think thats what the OP was suggesting. In fact I am SURE he was not saying "have someone explain to you over the internet how to build a natural anchor and take it from there"... Pretty easy to understand the OP meant find someone that knows how to do it and have them take you out and set on up and show you how its done.

Reading comprehension Greg.... Come on! Try to work on it!

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By Greg D
From Here
Sep 17, 2012
Out of the blue.  Photo by Mike W. <br />
RockyMtnTed wrote:
I don't think thats what the OP was suggesting. In fact I am SURE he was not saying "have someone explain to you over the internet how to build a natural anchor and take it from there"... Pretty easy to understand the OP meant find someone that knows how to do it and have them take you out and set on up and show you how its done. Reading comprehension Greg.... Come on! Try to work on it!


Actually I wasn't responding to the op. Someone else suggested it and has since deleted his post. He must have realized it was bad advice. Total comprehension Ted?

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By Julius Beres
From Boulder, CO
Sep 17, 2012
Rewritten
Can you climb trad or have friends that do? There are lots of easy trad lines you can climb and then throw a rope on an offwidth to top rope without needing big gear.

Someone has already mentioned Huston Crack... there is also Umph Slot in BC.
In Eldo, I would recommend:
Climb Hand Crack(aka White Lightning) and then throw a TR on Funeral March.
mountainproject.com/v/hand-cra...
mountainproject.com/v/funeral-...

Climb anything to get up to the upper Ramp (eg, climb the first 3 pitches of Ruper (nice to have a #4 but not necessary) or Rosy Crucifixion (doesn't require any big gear). Then have your partner lower you down Grand Giraffe and TR that. (It helps if you partner knows where the top is, as it is not obvious, but it is easily described). If you are hard core, climb Vertigo, which tops out pretty much where you would lower off to Grand Giraffe... you could also climb any of the routes like Yellow Spur, Icarus,etc that you rap past the upper ramp to get off...

Climb Wolf's Tooth on the Twin Owls at Lumpy Ridge. Although it is an offwidth, you can protect it all with small gear (mostly nuts, largest thing I used was a #3 cam). From the anchors on top of the first pitch, you can TR Tiger's Tooth (don't stem it if you want the full offwidth experience).

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By Old and Busted
From Centennial, CO
Sep 17, 2012
Stabby
Maybe someday the author will publicize this but don't hold your breath for it being anytime soon. Ha.
secret
secret

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By Cor
Sep 17, 2012
black nasty
looks like a climb at the maze in vedauwoo...

but that is a chimney, not an offwidth!

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By Dankasaurus
From Lyons, CO
Sep 17, 2012
Was just at The Maze in the Voo...if you lead "stepford wives" which is 5.8 perfect hands you can easily TR a couple of hard OW climbs.

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By BoulderCharles
Sep 17, 2012
If you are looking for bolted OWs, you probably won't find much in the Front Range so my (revised) reco would be to head up to Vedauwoo with a few bouldering pads, thick jeans, lots of tape, and a "mad at the world" attitude.

Oh, and go to Wild Country's website and see the crack school videos. Very helpful stuff.

Enjoy!

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By Chalk Norris
From Brighton, CO
Sep 17, 2012
Hey Dankasaurus...I have been looking for the maze (stepford wives) inparticular and cant seem to find it. Any chance, can you give some beta on how to get there? sounds super sweet. would love to get on it.
thanks,
brandon

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By Dankasaurus
From Lyons, CO
Sep 17, 2012
PM sent with beta. Let me know if you want more info.

Like folks are sayin'...the Voo is the place for the true OW experience. Throw in awesome granite fingers and hands and fists and dicey slabs.

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By Adam B
From Wheat Ridge, CO
Sep 17, 2012
Middle St. Vrain
Suprised nobody mentioned turkery perch
mountainproject.com/v/turkey-p...

Ragger Bagger
Gobble up
Steppenwolf

All are a little wide and you can sling trees on Ragger and Gobble. Might need some gear to TR Steppenwolf though.

You can knee bar and chicken wing on cornered up in SSV if your skinny, but it's not really OW
mountainproject.com/v/cornered...

And you can TR Admission Crack from Remission (bolts) up in SSV
mountainproject.com/v/remissio...

Look to stronger climbers for harder suggestions. Have fun!

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By Chalk Norris
From Brighton, CO
Sep 17, 2012
Thanx Dankasaurus...appreciate the beta.

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By Old and Busted
From Centennial, CO
Sep 17, 2012
Stabby
Instead of driving all the way up to Wyoming for the Woo offwidth experience, why don't you just throw yourself under a moving truck on a dirt road. Same overall effect.

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By Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Sep 17, 2012
Given the number of people providing earnest responses to the OP, I think they may disagree with me, but this has got to be a troll.

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By Rajiv Ayyangar
From Portland, ME
Sep 17, 2012
Cut! Sadly my flash attempt met with dismal pump-failure two bolts later.
White Zombie - a bolted 12d squeeze chimney (with lots of OW-style hand techniques) at Rumney, NH:

mountainproject.com/v/white-zo...

"Most people avoid this route like the plague, but it's actually really a fun route (and it's never crowded). Climb out the near horizontal v-shaped chimney with great effort. There are some jams, fingerlocks, and fist stacks in the back, but for the most part it's a thrash, smearing and contorting yourself in hopes of staying wedged in there somehow."

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By Greg D
From Here
Sep 17, 2012
Out of the blue.  Photo by Mike W. <br />
Fat Dad wrote:
Given the number of people providing earnest responses to the OP, I think they may disagree with me, but this has got to be a troll.


Yeah, I think you are right. Men are such suckers for a female climber looking for advice, myself included.

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