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Bolted Multi-pitch in the Dolomites
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By Gavin Echterling
Mar 15, 2014

Hello all!

I will be traveling to Venice in October. With the Dolomites a few hour drive from there, I'd really love to get out there and climb for a day.

For this trip, I'd like to travel light and avoid bringing a full rack. So I'm on the lookout for a quality several pitch bolted/well protected route where all I'd need to bring is a handful of draws and a rope or two. As far as grade, I'd like to keep it between UIAA V and VI+ but I would be comfortable with a pitch or two up to VII-/VII.

I've done a good bit of research already, but information on the type of climb I'm looking for seems a bit sparse. I've been reading through "Classic Dolomite Climbs" but the info on protection is vague for the most part.

I have found this route, which seems like what I'm looking for, but I'd also like to have a few others options to consider.
www.planetmountain.com/english/rock/routes/itineraries/sched>>>

Any and all information provided is hugely appreciated. I'd like to be as well informed as possible when I head out there to make my trip as efficient as possible.

Thanks in advance!
Gavin


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By Dave Meyers
From Golden, CO
Mar 15, 2014

If you check out the Arco area under Italy here and go to www.mountainproject.com/v/placche-zebrate/107043877
There are some good 4 - 10 pitch moderates. There's a walk off so only one rope is required. The routes are bolted, but you could get some gear in on some of the more sporty pitches.


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By Jerry
Mar 15, 2014

Hey,
I was there last July and prepared this list for a buddy who was wanting to climb max 5.11, although some of these are a little harder you may be able to pull through. These are in two areas, about 2 hours apart, Cortina and Sella Pass. I would still carry a .3 to a 1 BD and about 15 quick draws/runner.

Have fun, the place is flippen amazing!
J

Falzergo Pass
La Grande Gurea (The route to the left goes at 5.12 and we had it to ourselves, this one had several parties on it.)
www.planetmountain.com/english/rock/routes/itineraries/sched>>>

Pass Giau
Nikibi
www.planetmountain.com/english/rock/dolomites/itineraries/sc>>>

Re Artu
www.planetmountain.com/english/rock/dolomites/itineraries/sc>>>


Sella Pass - Towards Covera
Ottovalante
www.planetmountain.com/english/rock/dolomites/itineraries/sc>>>

Place in Colfosoco (Corvera)
www.ciufdlton.it/index.html
Mention Jim Brian and Jerry

Place In Cortina
www.venetobox.org/partx02/


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By Gavin Echterling
Mar 15, 2014

Thanks for the replies, very much appreciated!

Jerry: Did you jump on either Nikibi or Re Artu? Those are two that I've been closely looking at. If so, how was the view from the summits? I'm a hobbyist photographer as well and wouldn't mind getting a good landscape shot worthy of a large print.


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By mrcn
Mar 17, 2014

Gavin,
there's German book "The best alpine sport routes in north dolomites from 5c to 8a"
www.athesiabuch.it/list?back=44a1e86f78a1ee0110356a9b3af06cf>>>
but I think october may be a little late for many of them. You may get good weather or snow at approach and ice on descent – many routes end over 2500m. For short multipitch you can try Cinque Torri

I would second Dave about Arco area ( Sarca Valley ). Placche Zebrate has over 20 multipitch sport routes in the main sector. Other areas are Piccolo Dain and Colodri. There's guidebook in english www.versantesud.it/en/shop/arco-walls/ (previously called „Sarca Walls”).

I suggest to use double ropes if possible. There's high risk of falling rocks in Dolomites (and Placche Zebrate too ) + abseiling is much faster


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By Nick Votto
Mar 17, 2014
Bolton, VT

Here's a sweet place I stayed in Val di Fassa a few years ago, if you're looking....
www.campingvidor.it/eng/index.html


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By ddriver
From SLC
Mar 17, 2014

October may well be too late in the season. At least, the one time I was there in September it all went to hell, and I've gotten snow in Cortina proper in August. I'd second Arco as a reasonable alternative should the weather not pan out for you. Similar drive time and a worthy destination. There are lots of multi-pitch routes in the immediate area, almost all are sport-bolted. Vallee di Sarca is what you would want to research. Worthwhile crags right next to town include Colidri, Monte Colt, and Mandrea, but there is a ton there. All the Dolomites routes I've done have required a rack, other than 1-3 pitch sporties at Cinque Torri.


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By Gavin Echterling
Mar 20, 2014

Thanks all for the great information. I really appreciate it and this should help out a lot!


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