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Bolt Line 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Bradley White, 1985
Page Views: 3,331
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Feb 26, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (127)
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BETA PHOTO: Bolt Line (5.8, center), Cold Turkey (5.10c, left)...
Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Bolt Line is one of the longer climbs at the Meadows and offers approximately 70 feet of fairly sustained climbing at the grade. The common start (5.8) is right of the bolt line and works back left to the first bolt. There are a couple of alternative direct starts in the 5.10 or 5.11 range. Climb the face past seven bolts to the anchors. There is a bit of a runout between the seventh bolt and the anchor (protectable with a #4 RP). Fun route.


Location 

Located on the face just to the left of the prominent left-leaning flake on Beginnerís Route. Starts behind a large tree.


Protection 

7 bolts to Quick Clip anchors.



Photos of Bolt Line Slideshow Add Photo
A climber starting out on the some what bouldery start of Bolt Line...
A climber starting out on the some what bouldery s...
Climber leading Bolt Line.
Climber leading Bolt Line.
Dave on Bolt Line and another climber in the back on Lies and Propaganda 5.9
Dave on Bolt Line and another climber in the back ...
Bolt Line in its original state (circa 1992) - 5.7 & with only 3 bolts.
Bolt Line in its original state (circa 1992) - 5.7...
Kristen finishing a TR on Bolt Line - Loving the slab
Kristen finishing a TR on Bolt Line - Loving the s...
Comments on Bolt Line Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 20, 2012
By ri.
Oct 26, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Personally one of my favorites at the Meadows and an awesome intro into run out slab.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Nov 1, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Who says that sport climbers can't climb slabs?

This was my one and only solo climb at Rumney. Never again...never again.

By BTodd
May 26, 2008

I felt it was a little difficult for the grade, but maybe because I don't love slab climb as much as other types...

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Mar 22, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

this was my first 5.8 lead... that run out at the top sure was exciting its not so bad now but having never been on the sharp end on a 5.8 it was scary to say the least...fun route though

By BiRD
Apr 16, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Run out slab!! the first move is the only interesting one! If you like slab climb somewhere else! Rumney rocks because it avoid slab you find everywhere!!!!

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Apr 16, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

BiRD i agree this sint the best route in rumney but a no star rating dont know if it deserves that? IMHO

By Pal Pocsi
From: Budapest, Hungary
Oct 18, 2009

I climbed this yesterday and really enjoyed it. The runout at the end is not too bad either, it's definitely the easiest section of the route. Good slab practice. Whenever you think hand holds have run out, just work your feet higher and trust that hand holds will appear for you as you get higher. Sure enough, they do!

By Glenn Cilley
From: Laconia, NH
Mar 19, 2010

I use to put a very small nut in between the last bolt and the top of the cliff, when there was only 3 bolts, don't know if it would of held a fall but it looked good.

By Barrett Stetson
Jul 16, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

It's a fun slabby climb, if you like those, I would do it. I found it scarier trying to get to the first bolt than I did that bit of run out at the top, much worse stuff to fall on before that first bolt is clipped imo.

By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Jul 27, 2010

Bolt Line felt a bit like a Tuolumne Mdws slab climb. A great slab climb, with excellent protection. It must have been great fun with just the three bolts. IMHO, getting to the 1st bolt was more traumatic than the runout to the anchors.

By S. Neoh
Jul 28, 2010

I led this route back in the summer of 1993 or '94.
I remember using 2 or 3 trad pieces in addition to the bolts. It also seems to me that there were more than 3 bolts on this climb back then. Perhaps I was just bolder! :) The start (before the 1st bolt) got my attention, so did the ending (easy but runout and I did not place a trad piece). I should repeat the route one of these days.

By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Apr 4, 2012

Talk about run out. This route got me thinking several times. It felt a tad harder than the slab section of Cold Turkey (or maybe the slab section of Cold Turkey just feels easy after doing the bottom?) Either way, a good practice for beginning leaders looking to improve their lead head (me being on of them).

By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Apr 4, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Very fun, featured slab climbing. I'm not sure why folks are calling this runout, because it is quite safely bolted.

By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
May 9, 2012

Oh it is certainly safely bolted. However, I think a combination of the consistent 5.8 climbing combined with the fact that most Rumney climbs are not slab and are more frequently bolted because of that, makes this one feel run out in comparison. Still, if it were up to me, I would not add any bolts. This is an excellent climb for the aspiring leader to work on their lead head.

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jul 20, 2012

"85 for the date so they tell me. A face climbing slab started out with three hardware store bolts. I didn't realize at the time what a trend rappel bolting would become. The old timers then seeing what I had done to the practice slab said, "well, there goes the neighborhood". According to Ed Webster's 2nd Edition Climbing Guide, 1985 is the date. I'll have to believe that's the date. Also this date makes it the second rappel anchored route because 'Buried Treasure' was the first recorded route with a anchored bolt by rappel by Ted Hammond and Bob Pike in 1984.
'Bolt Line' was the first route entirely bolt protected though. In 2006 at the top of the Monolith Crag on the western side, there is a 2 bolt anchor that had to be done on rappel. The rest of the bolts could have been placed on the lead using radical hooking aid techniques or were also placed on rappel. The bolts are made from galvanized steel, have no hangers and are still body weight strong or stronger. The same bolts without hangers are on the 'Lone Ranger'. So the first rappel bolting was done by him or her way back when, then?"

Comment by bradley white on July 13th, 2008 4:46 am