|El Cajon Mountain Quarry
|Type: ||Aid, 2 pitches, 100'|
|Consensus: ||C0 [details]|
|FA: ||Bolted on Lead By: Nate Skains & Dave Alden|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||1,241|
|Submitted By: ||Dave Alden on May 7, 2012|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
The crux of the ladder is moving onto the 2 bolts ...
P1: Straight up until right before the anchor where the bolt line deviates slightly to the left.
P2: Straight up until you reach a series of horizontal seams where the bolt line veers to the right.
Left side of the Quarry wall.
P1: 14 bolts leading to a 2-bolt anchor/rapp station.
P2: 19 bolts leading to a 2-bolt anchor/rapp station.
60m rope should be fine, but 70m isn't a bad idea.
|By Jeff Kent|
From: Sedona, Az
Apr 30, 2013
Your bolt ladder is still a project?
|By Joshua Reinig|
Sep 16, 2013
Do believe the aid rating system starts out at C1 and is given the C for "Clean" or "Hammerless".
If the pitch required hammering, whether to place a bolt or a piton, it is given the A rating to differentiate the two styles.
Most bolt ladders That require no additional gear, hooks, or pitons, are usually rated A0!!!
Just to clarify any confusion on this wonderful ladder. Good safe way to introduce oneself to aid climbing.
|By Dave Alden|
From: San Diego, CA
Jan 9, 2014
The rating system for clean aid routes does in fact range from C0-C5, just as the original scale ranges from A0-A5.
Having said that, a clean aid climb (denoting the C rating) can be defined as a route that can be completed without a hammer and associated pins even if the route uses previously installed expansion bolts.
FYI there is no use for a hammer or pins on this route. All expansion bolts and associated hangers have been fixed and, unless removed by a third party, remain in place for everyone's use.
Bolt ladders are never given the A rating and are typically the only type of aid climb given a C0 rating, aside from the occasional pendulum or tension traverse on otherwise free climbs. Anything above C0 (ie C1-C5) require the placement of traditional gear.
The A0 rating is reserved for routes that are climbed mostly free with an occasional aid move that does not require specialized aid gear. An example would be pulling on gear from time to time during a free ascent, also known as french free climbing.
Also, both anchor/rappel stations have quick links fixed to assist in rappelling without having to leave gear behind. This route is indeed a good safe way to introduce yourself to aid climbing. You can leave your hammer at home and only pack in around 15 draws instead.