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El Cajon Mountain Quarry
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Bolt Ladder 

Bolt Ladder 

C0

   
Type:  Aid, 2 pitches, 100'
Consensus: C0 [details]
FA: Bolted on Lead By: Nate Skains & Dave Alden
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,401
Submitted By: Dave Alden on May 7, 2012

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The crux of the ladder is moving onto the 2 bolts ...

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>

Description 

P1: Straight up until right before the anchor where the bolt line deviates slightly to the left.
P2: Straight up until you reach a series of horizontal seams where the bolt line veers to the right.

Location 

Left side of the Quarry wall.

Protection 

P1: 14 bolts leading to a 2-bolt anchor/rapp station.
P2: 19 bolts leading to a 2-bolt anchor/rapp station.

60m rope should be fine, but 70m isn't a bad idea.


Photos of Bolt Ladder Slideshow Add Photo
An overview showing approximate locations of the bolts and anchors. (2/10/2013)
BETA PHOTO: An overview showing approximate locations of the b...
The Bolt Ladder and Quarry Wall taken from the far left side. (2/10/2013)
The Bolt Ladder and Quarry Wall taken from the far...
Steve leading the bolt ladder.
Steve leading the bolt ladder.
Steve leading the bolt ladder, Nate belaying... patiently.
Steve leading the bolt ladder, Nate belaying... pa...
Steve nearing the anchor.
Steve nearing the anchor.
Nate working the final 1/3 of the ladder. (2/10/2013)
Nate working the final 1/3 of the ladder. (2/10/20...
Good shot showing the location of the bolt ladder in relation to the large quarry wall.
Good shot showing the location of the bolt ladder ...
The 2nd anchor is a hanging belay as you can see here, also a good view of the final crux moves of the route. (2/10/2013)
The 2nd anchor is a hanging belay as you can see h...
A good shot showing an overview of the route with Nate at the 2nd anchor getting ready to rappel. (2/10/2013)
A good shot showing an overview of the route with ...
Nate starting to bolt the last 1/3 of the route on lead. (2/10/2013)
Nate starting to bolt the last 1/3 of the route on...
The existing shuts just above Nate on his right were actually incorporated in the route. They are rusted but still solid, adding a little bit of spice to the route! (2/10/2013)
The existing shuts just above Nate on his right we...
A shot showing how far the bolt ladder is to the left side of the Quarry wall. (2/10/2013)
A shot showing how far the bolt ladder is to the l...
Leading P1 of the bolt ladder
Leading P1 of the bolt ladder
Nate rapping the bolt ladder. (2/10/2013)
Nate rapping the bolt ladder. (2/10/2013)
Nate at the final anchor/rapp station. (2/10/2013)
Nate at the final anchor/rapp station. (2/10/2013)
The Quarry is quickly becoming known as the big wall training ground
The Quarry is quickly becoming known as the big wa...

Comments on Bolt Ladder Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeff Kent
From: Sedona, Az
Apr 30, 2013

Your bolt ladder is still a project?
By Dave Alden
From: San Diego, CA
Jan 9, 2014

The rating system for clean aid routes does in fact range from C0-C5, just as the original scale ranges from A0-A5.

Having said that, a clean aid climb (denoting the C rating) can be defined as a route that can be completed without a hammer and associated pins even if the route uses previously installed expansion bolts.

FYI there is no use for a hammer or pins on this route. All expansion bolts and associated hangers have been fixed and, unless removed by a third party, remain in place for everyone's use.

Bolt ladders are never given the A rating and are typically the only type of aid climb given a C0 rating, aside from the occasional pendulum or tension traverse on otherwise free climbs. Anything above C0 (ie C1-C5) require the placement of traditional gear.

The A0 rating is reserved for routes that are climbed mostly free with an occasional aid move that does not require specialized aid gear. An example would be pulling on gear from time to time during a free ascent, also known as french free climbing.

Also, both anchor/rappel stations have quick links fixed to assist in rappelling without having to leave gear behind. This route is indeed a good safe way to introduce yourself to aid climbing. You can leave your hammer at home and only pack in around 15 draws instead.