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Apr 10, 2013
Hi all,

I removed these bolts from an area that does not allow bolting. I removed them by hand with no effort- they were not glued in. Can anyone ID them? I did a couple of Google searches and could not get a positive ID. They are not wave bolts or the fixe, they lack welds that other wire type of climbing bolts seem to have.

Thanks.
Bolts
Bolts
climbamt
Joined Nov 1, 2006
32 points
Apr 10, 2013
Those are glue-ins for sure- odd that they dont have the twist. Maybe pm Jim Titt- if anyone has seen those before, it'd be him. John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Feb 1, 2004
2,394 points
Apr 10, 2013
Yep, for sure glue ins! Unfortunately I don't know either. MattG.
Joined Jan 30, 2008
172 points
Apr 10, 2013
Home made, for sure.

Let me check back.
Chris Vinson
Joined Jul 9, 2012
67 points
Apr 10, 2013
The Shield
Are the ends bent outward in the opposite directions and are there two welds? If so, they are Eco Anchors from DMM. Hardly seen anymore as they require a 3/4 hole. Sam Lightner, Jr.
From Lander, WY
Joined Apr 9, 2006
2,248 points
Apr 10, 2013
Hanging at Seneca
Thanks for taking those out. It's sad that they were placed to begin with, let alone placed poorly. I can't imagine why someone would need bolts when there are so many trees to anchor off there anyway. cjon3s
From Sterling, VA
Joined Sep 10, 2012
17 points
Apr 10, 2013
Hey Sam- No welds, and much smaller hole than 3/4".... climbamt
Joined Nov 1, 2006
32 points
Apr 10, 2013
Climbing at the Gallery in Red Rocks
climbamt wrote:
Hi all, I removed these bolts from an area that does not allow bolting. I removed them by hand with no effort- they were not glued in. Can anyone ID them? I did a couple of Google searches and could not get a positive ID. They are not wave bolts or the fixe, they lack welds that other wire type of climbing bolts seem to have. Thanks.


These bolts are home made buhler bolts. Now home made bolts can be just fine, but these have some major issues. First of all, the no glue thing, yeah that's about the biggest issue possible with a buhler bolt, secondly, these bolts are not notched nearly enough to provide a good glue adhesion to the bolt, and thirdly, the two legs should be welded together at the tip. Unfortunately, you'll probably never find out who made these, but lets just hope that they don't make any more until they figure out what they're doing.
kennoyce
From Layton, UT
Joined Aug 12, 2010
1,503 points
Apr 10, 2013
Grande Grotto
EDIT: Ken beat me to it ^^^

Highly unlikely those are commercial bolts. Agree with CT that those are homemade. That style of glue in is typically called a Bühler Bolt (not a P-hanger).

Jim Titts Bolting Page has info

The homemade factor comes from the lack of any welds holding the legs together AND more obvious, the POOR attempt at adding some notches for glue adhesion.

Homemade or early prototype for a later commercial design - The eyes looks pretty similar which makes me think the bending was done in a decent jig setup.
mattm
From TX
Joined Jun 2, 2006
1,238 points
Apr 10, 2013
Thanks for all of the input... climbamt
Joined Nov 1, 2006
32 points
Administrator
Apr 10, 2013
Kennoyce hit the highlights well. Those bolts are garbage and critically flawed from an engineering standpoint. 20 kN
From Hawaii
Joined Feb 2, 2009
665 points
Apr 12, 2013
It would be nice to know where they were found as the odds are it was a local who placed them. What doesn't make sense is the fact they know enough to make a Buehler style head but didn't glue them in. Is there any deflection in the legs at all??? If not they would be super weak in a axial pull scenario. Jim Taylor
Joined Apr 12, 2013
0 points
Apr 12, 2013
Hanging at Seneca
Hey Jim. They were placed at Carderock up in Maryland. cjon3s
From Sterling, VA
Joined Sep 10, 2012
17 points
Apr 12, 2013
Me again!
Might they have been head-pointing and planning on using these as removable bolts? Just thinking way outside that box.

You needent make foolish claims now to feel good bout yerself, I am not saying it's a good idear, but many a climbers have had them bad idears, and I was surmising that this was one of them.

How hard was this here climb? That might anser them questions.
J Q
Joined Mar 11, 2012
58 points


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