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Bolt ID
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By climbamt
Apr 10, 2013

Hi all,

I removed these bolts from an area that does not allow bolting. I removed them by hand with no effort- they were not glued in. Can anyone ID them? I did a couple of Google searches and could not get a positive ID. They are not wave bolts or the fixe, they lack welds that other wire type of climbing bolts seem to have.

Thanks.

Bolts
Bolts


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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Apr 10, 2013

Those are glue-ins for sure- odd that they dont have the twist. Maybe pm Jim Titt- if anyone has seen those before, it'd be him.


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By MattG.
Apr 10, 2013

Yep, for sure glue ins! Unfortunately I don't know either.


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By Chris Vinson
Apr 10, 2013

Home made, for sure.

Let me check back.


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By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From Lander, WY
Apr 10, 2013
The Shield

Are the ends bent outward in the opposite directions and are there two welds? If so, they are Eco Anchors from DMM. Hardly seen anymore as they require a 3/4 hole.


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By cjon3s
From Sterling, VA
Apr 10, 2013
Hanging at Seneca

Thanks for taking those out. It's sad that they were placed to begin with, let alone placed poorly. I can't imagine why someone would need bolts when there are so many trees to anchor off there anyway.


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By climbamt
Apr 10, 2013

Hey Sam- No welds, and much smaller hole than 3/4"....


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By kennoyce
From Layton, UT
Apr 10, 2013
Climbing at the Gallery in Red Rocks

climbamt wrote:
Hi all, I removed these bolts from an area that does not allow bolting. I removed them by hand with no effort- they were not glued in. Can anyone ID them? I did a couple of Google searches and could not get a positive ID. They are not wave bolts or the fixe, they lack welds that other wire type of climbing bolts seem to have. Thanks.


These bolts are home made buhler bolts. Now home made bolts can be just fine, but these have some major issues. First of all, the no glue thing, yeah that's about the biggest issue possible with a buhler bolt, secondly, these bolts are not notched nearly enough to provide a good glue adhesion to the bolt, and thirdly, the two legs should be welded together at the tip. Unfortunately, you'll probably never find out who made these, but lets just hope that they don't make any more until they figure out what they're doing.


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By mattm
From TX
Apr 10, 2013
Grande Grotto

EDIT: Ken beat me to it ^^^

Highly unlikely those are commercial bolts. Agree with CT that those are homemade. That style of glue in is typically called a Bühler Bolt (not a P-hanger).

Jim Titts Bolting Page has info

The homemade factor comes from the lack of any welds holding the legs together AND more obvious, the POOR attempt at adding some notches for glue adhesion.

Homemade or early prototype for a later commercial design - The eyes looks pretty similar which makes me think the bending was done in a decent jig setup.


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By climbamt
Apr 10, 2013

Thanks for all of the input...


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By 20 kN
From Hawaii
Apr 10, 2013

Kennoyce hit the highlights well. Those bolts are garbage and critically flawed from an engineering standpoint.


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By Jim Taylor
Apr 12, 2013

It would be nice to know where they were found as the odds are it was a local who placed them. What doesn't make sense is the fact they know enough to make a Buehler style head but didn't glue them in. Is there any deflection in the legs at all??? If not they would be super weak in a axial pull scenario.


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By cjon3s
From Sterling, VA
Apr 12, 2013
Hanging at Seneca

Hey Jim. They were placed at Carderock up in Maryland.


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By J Q
Apr 12, 2013
Me again!

Might they have been head-pointing and planning on using these as removable bolts? Just thinking way outside that box.

You needent make foolish claims now to feel good bout yerself, I am not saying it's a good idear, but many a climbers have had them bad idears, and I was surmising that this was one of them.

How hard was this here climb? That might anser them questions.


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