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Bolt cutter in Central Mass.
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By Brian
From North Kingstown, RI
Jul 30, 2014
Eiger summit
MJMobes wrote:
Brian from ri is an expert on desert climbing as well, hasn't climbed shit but knows so much. Need beta on solar slab he is your man.


You sound like an angry man Mike. I'm sorry that it is your route we talking about that was retro-bolted. I know everyone is trying to distance themselves from the fact that it was led on gear then retro-bolted because that is an ethical boundary in climbing, even if it was one piece of gear, or even if the Southington Town Council said it was okay to bolt, those excuses are lame to the climbing ethicist. Like I have said, as far as I'm concerned it is better off bolted.

As far as Red Rocks I certainly don't consider myself an expert on the area (or Solar Slab which I've only climbed twice) but I have climbed there every day for 15 weeks (=105 days from 1999-2014) so I do know the routes I climbed there fairly well. Want to compare climbing resumes?

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By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Jul 30, 2014
Stoked...
Brian wrote:
I will take some photos of the bolts sometime and revisit this thread.


Make sure to take some photos of the three bolts I circled in yellow...

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By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Jul 30, 2014
Stoked...
And for the record, lets get your other facts correct...

Fresh Bag is a retro of a line called Flashback, NOT Forest Fire. Flashback was solo'ed with a rope @ 5.9 once by Ken and Jim in 1989. It's not a trad line, its a TR, that was retro-bolted.

Fresh Bag starts in the corner, NOT in the scoop like you're claiming (one of the reasons why we know you never climbed the route).

You also claim Smoke Out 5.7 was retro bolted to a sport route except the majority of the bolts you "documented" don't exist except for the first one.

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By Doug Meneke
Jul 30, 2014
This is better than Jersey Shore!!!
Which one of you is Snooki?
Were you two married?
What is worse: the show...or the fact that I'm stupid enough to watch this?
Maybe I'll ask my wife.

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By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Jul 30, 2014
Stoked...
Oh and Chris, pretty cool for leading the old Firecracker line on gear. Did you find yourself on the face by the bolts or over to the left on the block crap which is where the original route went? And Chris if you're working on Thatcher, that's very awesome and keep up the good fight. I'm def following along on that one as a access fund volunteer.

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By Brian
From North Kingstown, RI
Jul 30, 2014
Eiger summit
Morgan Patterson wrote:
And for the record, lets get your other facts correct... Fresh Bag is a retro of a line called Flashback, NOT Forest Fire. Flashback was solo'ed with a rope @ 5.9 once by Ken and Jim in 1989. It's not a trad line, its a TR, that was retro-bolted. Fresh bag starts in the corner, NOT in the scoop like you're claiming (one of the reasons why we know you never climbed it).


Forest Fire goes straight up from the scoop to the right facing flakes on what is now called Fresh Bag. Ken has always had a thing about making his routes as straight as possible. Fresh Bag (retro line) starts in the corner but then goes directly to Forest Fire for the rest of the climb so 90 percent of it is over an existing line. I climbed Forest Fire many years ago and then dropped a static rope on it in the winter of 2013 before the article and top-rope soloed it. I am sure about that route. I will re-check the bolts I "Xed" in on Smoke Out as they may have been on a "new" route a couple of feet away. BTW I'm not the only one who says that bolts are on existing lines at Firewall. Dave Fasulo, who certainly knows about CT climbing history, said the same thing to me. We can argue ad nauseam about what bolts are on what climb or two feet away from what climb but the bottom line is existing trad lines were retro-bolted at Firewall. Just admit it. Every inch of that wall was led or soloed at some point in the past.

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By Brian
From North Kingstown, RI
Jul 30, 2014
Eiger summit
Doug Meneke wrote:
This is better than Jersey Shore!!! Which one of you is Snooki? Were you two married? What is worse: the show...or the fact that I'm stupid enough to watch this? Maybe I'll ask my wife.


Stay tuned for the dick measuring contest. ;-)

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By Bruce26
From Watertown, Massachusetts
Jul 30, 2014
stopken.org/Home.html

Send any pertinent information to the contacts listed. Additional license plate info and caught in the act evidence can be recorded and submitted to the authorities as well as the appropriate legal network

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By javd
From East Brookfield MA
Jul 30, 2014
Is stopken.org updated anymore?

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By Brian
From North Kingstown, RI
Jul 30, 2014
Eiger summit
javd wrote:
Is stopken.org updated anymore?


Jeff, I sent an updated photo of Ken's latest car to Rob Sullivan at stopken.org a few years back but it never got updated. There is not much that can be done to Ken for chopping bolts because his probation is up, it was only enforceable in MA, and in most places (state land) where there are bolts it is questionably legal to bolt in the first place.

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By zswan
Aug 5, 2014
Brian wrote:
There is not much that can be done to Ken for chopping bolts because his probation is up


Isn't he still on a 'no trespassing' notice for the privately owned crags like Farley and Rose Ledge?

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By Maurice Chaunders
Aug 5, 2014
Colombian Crack
Yet another sidelined post. Let's move te bolting ethics to another thread and get back to talking about the bolt chopper. His name was Robert Paulson.

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By D-Roc
Aug 5, 2014
^ Nice fight club reference

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By Brian
From North Kingstown, RI
Aug 5, 2014
Eiger summit
zswan wrote:
Isn't he still on a 'no trespassing' notice for the privately owned crags like Farley and Rose Ledge?


Yes, I believe that the WMCC has a no trespassing order against Nichols for Farley. I don't know if there is one for Rose Ledge but I would doubt it because there are no bolts. The no trespassing order doesn't affect him at High Rocks where the chopping occurred or anywhere else.

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By zswan
Aug 5, 2014
Brian wrote:
I don't know if there is one for Rose Ledge but I would doubt it because there are no bolts.

There are permanent anchors on some of the more popular routes, due to the damage (or risk) from slinging trees or sketchy boulders.

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By javd
From East Brookfield MA
Aug 5, 2014
Rose ledge is owned by first light and Power as part of Northfield Mountain. They use the mountain to generate electricity during peak usage.
They have to leave parts of the mountain open for recreation but, as far as I know, they, don't have an opinion on climbing.
Knowing that, I'd guess he's not trespassed from there. However, it's a popular crag and Ken is not a popular guy so he slithers into lesser known crags mid-week when there's no one around.

In Massachusetts, trespassing is only arrestable in the presence of the police, good luck getting one to walk in there for a trespasser who's likely to pay a $50 fine.

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By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Aug 6, 2014
Stoked...
Word is the 9 Wall (Feather Ledges)'s bolts were chopped (rather smashed) over and left as an unsightly mess in the last few days... This is the second wall smashed in the last year or two in CT and the second wall in the last few weeks in CT and MA to be smashed.

If folks see any suspicious activity or cars parked in the Chatfield climbers lot after dark it would make sense to take down car info and have a look around with a camera in hand.

If you or someone you know, knows who did this I'm asking for your help. There's what I would consider a truce right now in the state and this action puts a lot of that peace in danger. Maybe this person didn't know about this or maybe they thought they were making a statement and it would be 'cool'... I don't know really but, this person should be talked with ASAP unless of course it's Ken in which case Armageddon is likely just around the corner.

Ultimately neither the rock nor the climbing community will benefit and I fear history will repeat itself. That means we'll be losing not only some sport/mixed routes but some classic trad routes as well.

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By javd
From East Brookfield MA
Aug 6, 2014
That's too bad.

I climb a lot on weekdays during the day and have been keeping my eyes open. At least here, I think it's happening weekdays during the mornings or early afternoons when most normal people, besides myself and Ken are working.

High rock was hit during the week. Since then, Ive been checking there several times a week, walking my dogs.
I'm not sure what time of day Ross was chopped.

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By Travis Dustin
From Hollis, NH
Aug 7, 2014
Lost in the Sun pitch 2
Dont know if its relevant but bolts have been chopped on a small obscure crag in southern NH. They were on some controversial retro bolted routes.

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By javd
From East Brookfield MA
Aug 7, 2014
It probably depends where in NH, I could see that being KN or one of his mindless minions.... swanzy NH isn't too far from Farley and he used to chop bolts at Farley until he was banned from there.
I've been to Swanzy once but not familiar with southern NH climbing. Swanzy was nice... Fun jeep ride in.

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By M Sprague
Administrator
From New England
Aug 7, 2014
Lichen head. Me, with my usual weatherbeaten, lichen covered look from scrubbing a new route.
I don't think the NH stuff had any relation to the chopping in Mass. Quite different situation

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By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Aug 7, 2014
Stoked...
M Sprague wrote:
I don't think the NH stuff had any relation to the chopping in Mass. Quite different situation


That would by my suspicion as well...

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By Travis Dustin
From Hollis, NH
Aug 7, 2014
Lost in the Sun pitch 2
I dont think it was related but you nver know. All i know is I wasnt too happy to go ot for a couple of quick sport climbs after work and found that the bolts were gone! Luckily i had a little bit of gear so I was able to scramble to the top and get lowered off the top to get down to the anchors to set up a top rope.

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By Maurice Chaunders
Aug 8, 2014
Colombian Crack
It's time for a cockoff. Post pics or GTFO

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By Mark NH
Aug 8, 2014
Where in southern NH are you referring to Travis? I'm sure others in the local climbing community would like to know. I've not been to some of the "southern NH crags" since early in the season - so this info might help others know what they're getting into if headed out to climb. Thanks.

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