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Bolt Cola 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ken & Marsha Trout, ~1994
Page Views: 2,343
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (77)
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Move into the shallow left facing corner before st...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is well-protected, possibly over-bolted route, but good quality nevertheless. This is the first pitch of Astrophysics. Some neat balancy mantels are the crux (I guess). The route seems more like 9. Pull the roof on the right side and look for the last bolt just over the lip.

Protection 

8 QDs to a 2-bolt anchor. The last 20 feet are runout 5.6, where a cam could be placed, but quite easy.


Photos of Bolt Cola Slideshow Add Photo
Get Shorty and Bolt Cola
BETA PHOTO: Get Shorty and Bolt Cola
2. Simmer. 3. Bolt Cola.
BETA PHOTO: 2. Simmer. 3. Bolt Cola.
On the steeper crux section. Gorgeous (to look at ...
On the steeper crux section. Gorgeous (to look at ...

Comments on Bolt Cola Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 9, 2014
By Anonymous Coward
Jan 1, 2001

You might want to take a couple of medium sized pieces for the 20-25 foot stretch to the anchor. By the way what does overbolted actually mean?
By Ben Mottinger
Founding Father
Jan 1, 2001

To the "overbolted" comment, I mean that most of the route can be protected with stoppers and cams. There are only a few sections where placing gear would be difficult/runout. This applies to Simmer as well.
By Andy Moore
Sep 28, 2001

I've led this route without using the bolts, and there is only one place where I felt the pro was not great, and that was up high, under the roof, just before you get to easier ground (and good pro again). There was a so-so small cam placement below the roof, but the rock wasn't so great around the cams, and I didn't really want to test it.
By pete cogan
Aug 4, 2002

Variation of Fear: Not knowing where (Read: if) that bolt was on the R side of the roof, I went left and protected the flake/crack with a couple of stoppers. You can then head left to the other set of bolted anchors, or proceed R to the intended anchors.
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Aug 13, 2003
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

After getting reacquainted with real 5.9 face climbing out in Toulumne this year, I wonder if my toes were out of tune when we rated Bolt Cola. But, if Ken Cangi is suggesting 5.10b, I'm all for it. Close bolts really make things feel easier to me. My purpose was to just have a good warm-up for Jolt nearby, instead of having to roll the dice on Hike with Ludwig Dude.
By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn
Aug 13, 2003
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Actually more like 1 1/2 * ; good , but really outstanding.

[Definitely] over-rated at 5.10 and would probably go at 5.8 in Shelf.

There is a bit of a run-out to the anchors (but it is pretty easy), a couple of 3/4" to 1" cams would help steady down a leader used to an "over-bolted" routes.
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 12, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is the easiest route in this area to identify because you start by stepping off a spike of rock. You can't see the last bolt from the 6th bolt (at least we didn't), so without this knowledge we "bailed" left, where you can get some gear in. After placing another small cam you can wander up and right to the chains (looks tricky but is not), or head left for the anchor on "Shimmer".

Down low, there are several ways to get between the bolts so it's kind of hard to rate. No way is this route 5.8, though!
By Michael Amato
Oct 21, 2004

A number of fun moves, well protected with bolts until after the roof, then some runout, but on relatively easy ground.
By KCP
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Nov 15, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Good route.
By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 20, 2007

Thought this was a fun route and does have some thoughtful 5.10ish moves. But not knowing where the next bolt was at the roof I headed left thinking I could protect the crack with a cam. The placement looked a little marginal, but I went for it anyways. I slipped, the piece pulled, and I went quite a ways. Pulled myself together and went back up and this time went right, much easier that way and I thought I was wimping out, but I guess that is the way the route goes! Moral of the story is: good to read the descriptions on here first, and of course I shouldn't have tried it on marginal gear. I'll be back.
By DamageVic
From: Coal Creek Canyon, CO
Sep 18, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Climbed this yesterday- fun route, used a grey Alien in the seam/crack between the last bolt & the anchor. Enjoyed it quite a bit!

  • *As of 17 Sep 09 there is/was an ACTIVE wasp nest very close to the 7th/last bolt...BEWARE!**
By Area Dan
Jan 2, 2012

I found a pair of Evolv shoes at the base of this climb today (1/2/2012). PM or call me if they are yours.
303-709-2214.
By hwendlandt
Oct 18, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The main info here says 8 QDs, but for the life of me, there were 6 on the face. If you go right at the little roof, you'll find a 7th, with that 20-25' runout. If you go left over that little roof and you didn't bring gear, I don't care how 5.6 it might be; that's 30+ feet runout, with a real chance of decking if you bumble something at the anchors. That mythic 8th QD would change the world on this climb.
By justin hausmann
Nov 17, 2013

Thought this was the best of the climbs on the face. Couldn't see the bolt right and up of the top block, so actually went left into juggy crack on the first lead - fun too. Used a 0.75 and perhaps a 1 toward the top.
By Tombo
From: Boulder
Aug 9, 2014

Never found the elusive 8th bolt. You could make this route 10a, but following natural weaknesses in line with bolt felt 5.9.