This route S-curves up the wall passing thru three separate overhangs to a bold and committing move onto an exposed arete. Delicate climbing on the arete leads to larger holds and the anchor above.
Begins 12' to the right of The Becky Route
13 bolts with a 2-bolt mussy hook anchor. Lower off with a 60m.
|By Randy in Ridgecrest|
From: Inyokern, CA
Jul 4, 2011
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Great new climb, the name says it all! Cruxes are technical, the climbing pretty sustained, and it's long. The arete move high up is a mind bender! Crux difficulty may be somewhat height dependent. Because the hard moves are technical and improbable I think the redpoint rating is 11b and the onsight maybe a tick harder.
From: Mojave, CA
Aug 15, 2011
Will probably be harder for shorter people. I think a key hold has broken at the arete move which makes the climb a little more dynamic. Overall, the holds are a little awkward in spots, but still well worth doing.
|By Phil Esra|
Aug 4, 2014
Fun, sustained climbing on sometimes dodgy rock. There's a creaky optional undercling/sidepull, in line with the start of the route, that's going to let go sooner or later--heads up belayers.