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 ADVANCED
Screamweaver Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Planet T,S 
Boldfingers T 
Chicken Head City T 
Coldfingers T 
Finishing School Blues T,S 
Free for All S 
Friday the 13th T,S 
Golden Blend S 
Leapin' Lizards T 
Pumping In Rhythm T 
Screamweaver T 
Southern Boys Don't Wear Plaid T 
unknown T 
Zydygo T 
Unsorted Routes:

Boldfingers 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Kris Kline, Eddie Begoon (1985)
Season: 50 degrees or below
Page Views: 1,534
Submitted By: ChanVan on Feb 2, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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After pulling the boulder problem start, only to g...

Description 

Boldfingers is a bad-ass route on great rock- classic NC hard trad. The climbing up to the crux is pumpy and fun, and the crux seam requires doing hard moves on small but good gear. While somewhat contrived, as there is an obvious weakness to the right, the direct start is also really cool (unprotected highball v4 boulder problem to a stance). Either way you do it, the route is killer.


Location 

The route is just to the left of Static Klingon and Black Planet. It's the obvious crack system heading up the steep golden wall.


Protection 

small cams up through a number 1 camalot with nuts (bring micros!) There is a bomber two-bolt anchor at the top.



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