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Lance Lemkau starting up Bold-Ville
An excellent pitch that is atypical for the Gunks - more subtle and balancy than usual.
Look for a right-slanting crack system that starts about 55' left of The Spring (P1).
P1: Climb up and right, then left through a small overhang, up the crack, and finish with a funky rightward traverse to a fixed anchor that deposits you over The Winter (or continue to the bolts on the huge ledge up and right) 5.8, 80'.
P2: If you keep going, work back left and skirt the roof above on the left. Then climb somewhat vegetated rock to the GT Ledge. 5.6, 100'.
The Bold-Ville access trail is about a 19-min. walk from the Uberfall, and a 15-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. This is just past a boulder with bouldering routes on it. Bold-Ville starts about 55' left of The Spring, a left-facing corner with a spring at its base. Bold-Ville is about 170' right of Double Crack.
Standard Gunks rack
|By John Ely|
Jan 31, 2009
Be sure not to miss the wildly overhanging 5.6+ hand rail on the second pitch.
Oct 24, 2009
Regarding pitch 1: If you follow the curving crack to its end and then go straight up to the anchor for The Winter, you've actually gone off route. Dick Williams' description calls for you to leave the crack and go through the little roof at its first break, which was the crux for me.
And I agree, the second pitch is great, although it is pretty short, and then you end up at the anchor above The Nose, which consists of two old angle pitons. People rap from this anchor every day but it didn't give me a good feeling, and ascending up to the GT ledge or the top from this point is a filthy bushwhack.
Nov 13, 2012
As Seth notes, the actual route escapes from the traverse at the first break in the rightward curving roof under which you traverse. Slightly more challenging than going to the chains.
Fantastic 2nd pitch. Linked both pitches with with double ropes but had used my bigger cams on the first pitch and struggled to find inspiring placements for the small gear among the hollow sounding flakes and loose rocks. Save the #3 Camalot for the traverse.