Login with Facebook
The Shield
Select Route:
Bold Talk for a One-Eyed Fat Man S 
Deep Prok S 
Fly on a Windshield T 
French Route T,S 
Prok T 
Real Gravy T 
Runamuck T 
Stranger Than Friction T 

Bold Talk for a One-Eyed Fat Man 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b R

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 115'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: James Crump, Karen Ghiselli
Page Views: 2,794
Submitted By: Stu Ritchie on Jan 17, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Embarking on Bold Talk...unfortunately the batteri...


Taken from the Dome Drivers Manual : "From the first tree left of Gravitron, climb sustained 5.10 crystals past the overlap and the first two bolts. The crux is the 25-foot bulge leading to the third bolt. This section starts with steep edging and ends with small crystals. Climb left to the forth bolt and then embark on a 45-foot run-out of 5.9+ to the fifth bolt. Just above is a double-bolt belay with a ledge stance."

This is an outstanding pitch that really isn't as scary as the description sounds. It's all there, however, a cool head is necessary to avoid a very nasty fall!

An added bonus is the opportunity to toprope the very serious Gravitron from the anchor.


Down and right from Ripple by a large tree with a bolt over the overlap. Just left of the prominent black streak containing Gravitron.


All you need is about 8 draws and ample huevos! A #2 Camalot will protect the clip of the initial bolt.

Comments on Bold Talk for a One-Eyed Fat Man Add Comment
Show which comments
By john strand
From: southern colo
Jan 18, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R

By no means a death route, but a strong R in my book. Very good route.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!