Bold Talk for a One-Eyed Fat Man
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Taken from the Dome Drivers Manual : "From the first tree left of Gravitron, climb sustained 5.10 crystals past the overlap and the first two bolts. The crux is the 25-foot bulge leading to the third bolt. This section starts with steep edging and ends with small crystals. Climb left to the forth bolt and then embark on a 45-foot run-out of 5.9+ to the fifth bolt. Just above is a double-bolt belay with a ledge stance."
This is an outstanding pitch that really isn't as scary as the description sounds. It's all there, however, a cool head is necessary to avoid a very nasty fall!
An added bonus is the opportunity to toprope the very serious Gravitron from the anchor.
Down and right from Ripple by a large tree with a bolt over the overlap. Just left of the prominent black streak containing Gravitron.
All you need is about 8 draws and ample huevos! A #2 Camalot will protect the clip of the initial bolt.
|Comments on Bold Talk for a One-Eyed Fat Man
|By john strand|
From: southern colo
Jan 18, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b R
By no means a death route, but a strong R in my book. Very good route.