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The Shield
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Bold Talk for a One-Eyed Fat Man S 
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Bold Talk for a One-Eyed Fat Man 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b R

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 115'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: James Crump, Karen Ghiselli
Page Views: 1,839
Submitted By: Stu Ritchie on Jan 17, 2011

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Embarking on Bold Talk...unfortunately the batteri...

Description 

Taken from the Dome Drivers Manual : "From the first tree left of Gravitron, climb sustained 5.10 crystals past the overlap and the first two bolts. The crux is the 25-foot bulge leading to the third bolt. This section starts with steep edging and ends with small crystals. Climb left to the forth bolt and then embark on a 45-foot run-out of 5.9+ to the fifth bolt. Just above is a double-bolt belay with a ledge stance."

This is an outstanding pitch that really isn't as scary as the description sounds. It's all there, however, a cool head is necessary to avoid a very nasty fall!

An added bonus is the opportunity to toprope the very serious Gravitron from the anchor.

Location 

Down and right from Ripple by a large tree with a bolt over the overlap. Just left of the prominent black streak containing Gravitron.

Protection 

All you need is about 8 draws and ample huevos! A #2 Camalot will protect the clip of the initial bolt.


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By john strand
From: southern colo
Jan 18, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R

By no means a death route, but a strong R in my book. Very good route.