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Bold Talk for a One-Eyed Fat Man
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British R
Avg: 3.3 from 8
votes
Routes in The Shield
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Amazing Gravy T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Ambulance Blues S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Bold Talk for a One-Eyed Fat Man S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Carpet Crawl T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Deep Prok S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Eden T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Edge of Night T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Elastic Happiness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Fly on a Windshield T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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French Route T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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God's Elastic Acre T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Gravitron T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X |
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Green Death TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Happy Radio T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Intensive Care T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Itty Bitty Black Streak TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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La Dolce Vita TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X |
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Matrimonio Feliz T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Mexican Radio T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Nerdwand T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X |
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Prok T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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Pummel Jenga T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Real Gravy T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Runamuck T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Sixth Happiness T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Stranger Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
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Stranger Than Friction T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Terminal Orogeny T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Texas Radio T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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| Type: | Sport, 115 ft (35 m) |
| FA: | James Crump, Karen Ghiselli |
| Page Views: | 6,094 total · 38/month |
| Shared By: | Stuart Ritchie on Jan 17, 2011 |
| Admins: | mattm, Matt Richardson, Tommy Blackwell |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset
Details
Rule Changes Concerning Pets at Enchanted Rock State Natural Area to Take Effect March 1.
Beginning March 1, new rules will take effect at Enchanted Rock State Natural Area designed to balance the need to better protect sensitive natural habitats atop the rock, including the vernal pools, and still allow visitors to continue to enjoy central Texas’ most popular destination with their pets.
Starting Tuesday, pets will only be allowed in specified camping areas, day-use areas and the Loop Trail. Pets will no longer be allowed to accompany hikers on the Summit Trail that ascends to the top of Enchanted Rock.
Most trails, including the Summit Trail, are closed 30 minutes after sunset, allowing park visitors to view the sunset and safely descend to the parking lot. The Loop Trail is the only trail open after sunset to gain access to the primitive camping areas.
For more info:
tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/…
830-685-3636
Beginning March 1, new rules will take effect at Enchanted Rock State Natural Area designed to balance the need to better protect sensitive natural habitats atop the rock, including the vernal pools, and still allow visitors to continue to enjoy central Texas’ most popular destination with their pets.
Starting Tuesday, pets will only be allowed in specified camping areas, day-use areas and the Loop Trail. Pets will no longer be allowed to accompany hikers on the Summit Trail that ascends to the top of Enchanted Rock.
Most trails, including the Summit Trail, are closed 30 minutes after sunset, allowing park visitors to view the sunset and safely descend to the parking lot. The Loop Trail is the only trail open after sunset to gain access to the primitive camping areas.
For more info:
tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/…
830-685-3636
Description
Taken from the Dome Drivers Manual : "From the first tree left of Gravitron, climb sustained 5.10 crystals past the overlap and the first two bolts. The crux is the 25-foot bulge leading to the third bolt. This section starts with steep edging and ends with small crystals. Climb left to the forth bolt and then embark on a 45-foot run-out of 5.9+ to the fifth bolt. Just above is a double-bolt belay with a ledge stance."
This is an outstanding pitch that really isn't as scary as the description sounds. It's all there, however, a cool head is necessary to avoid a very nasty fall!
An added bonus is the opportunity to toprope the very serious Gravitron from the anchor.
This is an outstanding pitch that really isn't as scary as the description sounds. It's all there, however, a cool head is necessary to avoid a very nasty fall!
An added bonus is the opportunity to toprope the very serious Gravitron from the anchor.
1 Comment