Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Uptown
Select Route:
Baxter Crack T 
Bold is Love T,S 
Bolt Ladder Boulder 
Bonobo 
Five Easy Pieces T 
Gone Fishin' T,S 
Inferno T 
John's Jugs T 
Left Deception T 
Megadeath T 
Middle Deception Crack T 
Now Smell This S 
PMC T 
Prow, The T 
Retirement Crack T 
Right Deception Crack T 
Right Elephant Crack T 
Slab Problem 
Spread Flake T 
TT's Terror T 
Unknown TR TR 
Verse in Ragtime T,S 
Zit Slab T 

Bold is Love 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: ccox and H. Padilla
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,561
Submitted By: Colin Cox on Jun 12, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: The top of Bold is Love. The Prow can be seen in t...

Description 

Start ten feet right of the initially dirty, mossy crack system, on a flake jug on the face. Climb good, slabby features left and up to the crack system previously mentioned. Climb a few moves up the low angle wide crack(beware of your rope falling into a slot just above), then angle slightly left up the slabby dihedral with a seam that offers some protection just before a ledge is encountered on your left. Use the ledge, or not, and continue up the crack line that leads to the steep, striking prow/arete with the handrail that curves along it's edge - the business. To the first bolt the route is about 5.7 with sparse gear. Climb up the steep, juggy handrail past two more bolts to a sinker pocket and well hidden chain anchor at the lip. Don't cheat yourself by climbing to the steep lip of the cliff, clipping and lowering. Top it out for old school satisfaction, then reverse the topout moves and lower.
*This climb was established entirely on lead.


Location 

Bold is Love is located about 50 feet to the right of The Prow. Eyeball the handrail high above, and the line to it will be fairly obvious. Be sure to avoid the mossy crack in the first twenty feet by starting up the face to the right. The first hold is a big, angling jug.


Protection 

#2 camalot, #.75 camalot, 5 quick draws. 60m rope.



Comments on Bold is Love Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dean Hoffman
Jun 15, 2008

Climbed this last week and its fantastic! Another beautiful, not contrived line. Perhaps we are seeing the dawn of a new Renaissance at West Elden. Strong work Colin and Helen, bolted on lead no less.

By Will Cobb
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 5, 2008

This route is awesome. Pretty stout at 5.10+ but it should be at west elden.

By Colin Cox
Sep 5, 2012

We originally rated this 10d because David said it was. I changed the grade after doing it again recently. This climb is 5.11, just as we originally thought.