Bohuslan is a region along the west coast of Sweden, and is one of the best kept secrets in climbing. We didn't get the sense that this was intentional - the locals are extremely friendly and helpful. The issue seems to be that there is no information available about the climbing for international climbers - the guidebook is entirely in Swedish, and is currently out of print.
The rock in Bohuslan is extremely solid granite, with a beautiful rosy pink color. The climbing is mostly cragging, and there are many quality crags scattered throughout the beautiful countryside. Most of the approaches are very short, and it is normal to visit more than one crag in a day. There are great routes for all levels, but the place really shines for the 5.10 - 5.11 climber.
Bohuslan is well worth a visit - trad cragging paradise.
You will definitely want to have a car in Bohuslan. The nearest big city is Gothenburg (Goteborg), which is about 1.5 hours south of the main climbing areas. The best option would be to fly to Gothenburg and rent a car from there.
It is also possible to fly into Oslo and take a bus to Stromstad, Sweden, which is at the northern end of the Bohuslan region. Be aware that if coming from Norway, it is far less expensive to bus from Oslo and rent a car in Sweden (that is why I mention the bus to Stromstad).
There are two main camping areas - one offered by the Bohuslan Climbers Club and another run by a couple of local climbers, Hanna and Petter. Staying at their site offers the advantage of having hosts that are among the top climbers in the area and who can provide beta on pretty much any route you want to climb. Both options have outdoor tent areas and simple indoor facilities to escape the weather on rainy days.
White gas and the green Coleman propane canisters were not widely (at all?) available in Sweden - bring a stove that uses the butane/propane cartridges.
Groceries can be purchased throughout the region and prices are reasonable. For beer/wine, you will need to travel into the nearby town of Lysekil to the "System Bolaget", the state run liquor store, which is located across from the park right in the center of town.
To get to Hanna and Petter's camping area: Heading north on 162 from Lysekil, turn left into Brodalen (there is a Coop grocery store on the corner). The road curves right and goes over a small bridge. Then, turn left on the road towards Slavik. In a short distance, there will be a right turn and a sign marked Melby nedre - turn here. Follow this gravel road more or less to the end, and you will see a small sign that says "Klattertorpet". That is the driveway - you want to park just above. Continue along the road (uphill) past the driveway for a very short distance and make a left into the grassy parking area.
For the purpose of describing directions to climbs on this site, I will use the small town of Brodalen as a reference point. Brodalen is more or less in the center of most of the climbing and is also the nearest town to Hanna and Petter's camping area.
19 Total Routes
['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Bohuslan:
Featured Route For Bohuslan
Vilskudd 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Europe
: ... : Valserod
One of the "four classic 6-" climbs in Bohuslan, this fine route is not to be missed. Traverse a juggy flake up and left into the main crack. Head up the crack to a small roof, then step left out onto the face and traverse over to a nice handcrack. Follow the crack up and right to the start of a cruxy layback section which follows the flake out left. At the end of the layback, follow the handcrack straight to the top. Belay on gear....[more] Browse More Classics in International
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