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Sex Cave
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Body Wax 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Jeff Jackson
Page Views: 1,534
Submitted By: Matt Weisman on Oct 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Climber matching the undercling blob (technical te...

Description 

Classic Reimers route that ascends what seems like the steepest section of the sex cave.

Starts out with easy climbing till the second bolt. Use bomber underclings to set up for a huge throw to a jug. The contrived finish ends above the last bolt in the chossy cave.

Don't blow any of the clips as you will surely deck

Location 

In the sex cave center right of lucky strikes

Protection 

four bolts and no anchors


Photos of Body Wax Slideshow Add Photo
Sticking the throw to the jug rail.
Sticking the throw to the jug rail.
Mike negotiating the underclings
Mike negotiating the underclings
Moving past the last bolt, headed for the top.
Moving past the last bolt, headed for the top.

Comments on Body Wax Add Comment
Show which comments
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Sep 14, 2008
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

"Don't blow any of the clips as you will surely deck", well yeah or you could "blow" them all off and bring the pads instead. Just a thought, may not apply as well to route left of this.
By Matthew NM
Apr 10, 2009
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

totally boulder-able, as long as your wife isn't watching...
By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From: Golden, CO
Apr 10, 2009

And maybe you got a pad or two.
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
May 15, 2009
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

As for Matthew NM, the wife not watching is just as if not more important than the pads, though, yes I would like pads as well as a spot.