Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,761 total · 39/month
Shared By: Sean Patrick on Mar 29, 2014
Admins: Aaron Mc, Dave Hug, Kevin Sierzega

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

A powerful and beautiful roof compression problem. It starts with a couple of big throws, then some compression with tensiony, far away feet, and finishes with hero climbing on an awesome rail.
If you always wanted to climb The Vice, but don't climb v13 or can't get to Africa, this is your problem.
Arguably the best boulder problem in the canyon, and good enough that it stands out in the region.
Feels v9 to some body types.

Location Suggest change

This problem is located underneath the boulder just uphill from Yosemite Slab (v0-ish). Look for the steep compression problem leading to a beautiful finish rail.
Start on the undercling about 5 feet deep under the roof. There will be an obvious, left-facing foot rail. I started with my left hand in the good part, my right hand in the undercling that was left over, left toe in the foot rail, and shot right hand out to the rail.

Protection Suggest change

2 big pads from Organic were perfect for us.

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