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Rebel Wall
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Amy Is No Help T,TR 
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Upper Cut T 

Body English 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Alvino Pon and Mark Pell, early 1990s
Page Views: 1,191
Submitted By: tobias on May 18, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Using some Body English as seen from the road.

Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Nice route. If you wanna place gear in the canyon, this is one to consider. It starts up a big left-facing dihedral, goes over a bulge, then later a roof. There are plenty of placement options. As the climbing gets easier (although the rock is a bit sketchier), head left up under the huge overhang. There's an anchor there that you can rap off (or continue on with the short second pitch named "Upper Cut"--recommended).

The Colorado Front Range book lists this as over a 100 foot rappel, but it's not. The length of the climb is more like 80 feet total. It has a great belay ledge with nice views of the canyon and kayakers in the spring.

Protection 

Medium rack. I only used wires and cams, though hexes would have taken well....


Photos of Body English Slideshow Add Photo
Wide stem at the first of two roofs.
Wide stem at the first of two roofs.
Above 1st roof and headed for the 2nd. Taken from ...
Above 1st roof and headed for the 2nd. Taken from ...

Comments on Body English Add Comment
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By Casey Bernal
From: Arvada, CO
Apr 20, 2008

I thought this is a quality route. Hexes do work really well on this climb. I thought it was closer to 100', though we didn't bring a measuring tape and we stopped at the chains which adds a little. There wasn't more than ~30' of the 70m rope on the ground for the rap.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 29, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

To clarify, the anchors listed as 110' (from Alvino's notes) are further left along the ledge system (above Epidote, I think). The first two cold shuts you get to at the top of Body English are really only about 85' back to the ledge.

Classic and fun route. Great gear, solid stone, fun jamming. Plenty of body English gets you through the hard parts. A #4 Camalot was nice to have.
By Kevin Capps
From: Golden, CO
Jul 18, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This was my first time to the area, and I picked Body English because of how beautiful of a line it was. The movement on the climb was funky, challenging, and spectacular. Very fun route!!
By Mark Pell
Mar 23, 2014

'Preciate all the nice comments. This is another route by me and Alvino Pon from the early '90s, and it is a hidden gem and well protected with clean gear. Your body will point in all directions of the compass as you work your way up between secure rest stances. If a move seems too funky one way, just face the other way and it will open up to you. This is one of those you'll wish was hundreds of feet tall.
By Rob Meringolo
From: Denver, CO
Jul 26, 2014

If you want to feel extra secure bring a #4 BD cam. Place both #3s I had and could have used the bigger piece through the wider section in the middle, not completely necessary though, just my 2 cents. If you are hunting for CCC cracks, this should be on your list.