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Routes in South Whizz Dome
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Blackout (direct start) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A0 X |
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Body and Soul T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Body Count S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Climbing Back T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Countdown S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X |
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Decoy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X |
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Fame and Fortune S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Golden Age S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a A0 |
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Golden Age (Direct Start) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Golden Shower S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b A0 |
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Golden Shower left variation S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b A0 |
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Hazy Days S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Love Sexy S,TR 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Med School Hooky S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A0 |
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Med School Hooky Direct Start S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Prow, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rivendell Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Shadow Warriors S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Start Bouldering S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Super Sonic S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Wisdom S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Wisdom Extension S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Wit S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | John Bachar, Mike Lechlinski |
| Page Views: | 3,209 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Alex Shainman on Nov 16, 2009 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Body and Soul is characterized by an impressive knobby bulge above a smooth brown and white mottled wall. The route is a major achievement for it's era and even today. Done prior to and overshadowed by "Bachar-Yerian" and in the style of the day, B&S is another example of John's physical abilities and mindset.
The route has yet to be led ground up in true onsight style. Steve Schneider, according to John, made the second ascent after taking big falls onto the pro below the crux bulge and lowered off yo-yo style. It is unclear how many ascents should be documented. When attempted even with these tactics, the route is quite formidable and dangerous! It's just one of those climbs you get obsessed about and don't spend too much time messing around on.
The route has yet to be led ground up in true onsight style. Steve Schneider, according to John, made the second ascent after taking big falls onto the pro below the crux bulge and lowered off yo-yo style. It is unclear how many ascents should be documented. When attempted even with these tactics, the route is quite formidable and dangerous! It's just one of those climbs you get obsessed about and don't spend too much time messing around on.
Location
Locate a shallow knobby flake below 2 old bolts. As you climb past the bolts, you gotta wonder why they didn't place them higher...Execute a devious and difficult 11+ sequence on slopey knobs and arrive at the diagonal crack. Unload some cams with long runners and try to relax...your body and your soul. The bulge itself is powerful and hard to decifer and once you commit...You're on! The fall is not that great but with the right belayer, you should avoid injury. Once above the bulge the lack of good pro and funky crystals will keep your attention! Set a funky belay because the route angles off quite a bit, or tackle the headwall direct.
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