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Climbign 101 


YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

Type: Sport, 5 pitches, 510', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Rob Hagler and Luke Evans, 2002
Season: Summer
Page Views: 956
Submitted By: Jeff J on Sep 27, 2010
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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thats me in blue taking on the first lead

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P1:(5.9) Start just left of "home boys on Soy" and follow the bolts 90' to chains.

P2: (5.10)Follow the bolts up the prominent prow, 90'

P3:(5.10) Head up left trending face to a ledge.

P4:(5.10+) think shy of 5.11, its getting stout now. Follow the face that's just wonderful and crimpy with thin but fun feet to chains just below a roof.

P:5 (5.12+) didn't try this pitch. It heads up a very slick looking shield.


Located between "Homeboys on Soy" and "Yuan Chi"
Look for the "Birds head" that marks "homeboys"
bolts start like 25 feet up, so look up.
getting down: double length 60s will do it.


Pro: Quick draws
Anchors: all fixed chains if I remember right.

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