|Upper South Corner Cliffs
Bodhi Tree 5.9 G (5.5 pg) 140'
Contrary to the Upper South Corner Cliffs reputation, Bodhi Tree is a clean route with safe gear for a leader solid at the grade.
Start: This route is located approximately 60' left and uphill of Willies Danish Prince at the Long Play Wall up a steep chimney-like gulley to where a teetering rock balances against the face at an obvious left facing corner.
Route: Stunning is the best way to describe this climb. The exposure the varied climbing and the spectacular views blow you away. Teeter across the balanced rock bridge to the left facing corner and climb it through splitter hands to its end to a low angled slab. At the low angled slab there is an optional belay at a fixed anchor up and left. Otherwise aim up and slightly right for an obvious bulging stellar looking left arching finger flake to thin hands crack. Climb the crack to its end then trend right and up on plated face with horizontals then up and back left to a Pin Oak tree and anchor. 140'
Descent: A 70m will get you down in one rappel. With a 60m rope rap the Pin Oak anchor down and slightly left to a fixed anchor. Rap once more to the ground from the fixed anchor.
FA: Michael Gray, Keith Meister, Ben Brooke 08/25/12
Note: The route is conducive to developing rope drag on the upper face if you do not take appropriate care.
Standard rack, an extra 2 can be useful.
From: Lake George, NY
Aug 25, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
The start is cruxy and climb really demands alot of jam technique. So far this is the purest hand crack route i've been on at crane. its a great test.
|By Jay Harrison|
Sep 13, 2012
A couple moves are about as pure jamming as it gets: there are practically no feet, you just have to crank up on those painful slots.