BETA PHOTO: Bockmattli Grosser Turm approach. After the scram...
The north face of Bockmattli has about a dozen impressive routes on varied limestone. Cracks, roofs, crumbling slopes, and well-protected routes make for a worthwhile trip.
Also home of Supertramp, a classic alpine route which does not fall into the 'well-protected' category!
More information here hikr.org/dir/Bockmattli_492/
Covered in Plaisir Ost and several other books.
An easy drive from Zurich, also accessible by train and bus to Innerthal. 1.5 hr approach up a winding road, passing through a dairy farm (you'll hear it before you see it), and up to a 'kletterhutte' (climbing hut, operated by the SAC).
One option is to take bikes along. From Innerthal you can bike more than halfway up (paved and dirt road), then push bikes up to the farm. Leave the bikes there and another 20 min later you're at the hutte. The bikes make the descent a blast.
Climbing Season For the Switzerland area.
Weather station 7.8 miles from here
4 Total Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Bockmattli
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Bockmattli:
Featured Route For Bockmattli
Supertramp 6c+ 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
A megaclassic of central Switzerland. Notoriously hard for the grade, with a challenging approach of traverses and with unobvious route finding at the start. First repeated only after two years, by Wolfgang Güllich.Rebolted in 2004-05, with additional bolts added beyond what the first ascentionists used. M. Scheel declared that he had a 'copyright' to his work of art, and so the original character was restored by removing 28 bolts. The spooky alpine feeling is back.. The first ascent party went ...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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Bockmattli nordwarnd (left) and little Bockmattli
Bockmattli north face catching the sunset