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The north face of Bockmattli has about a dozen impressive routes on varied limestone. Cracks, roofs, crumbling slopes, and well-protected routes make for a worthwhile trip.
An easy drive from Zurich, also accessible by train and bus to Innerthal. 1.5 hr approach up a winding road, passing through a dairy farm (you'll hear it before you see it), and up to a 'kletterhutte' (climbing hut, operated by the SAC).
4 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Bockmattli
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Bockmattli:
Namenslose Kante 5a 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c Trad, Sport, 9 pitches, 1100'
Featured Route For Bockmattli
Supertramp 6c+ 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a A0 Europe : Switzerland : Bockmattli
A megaclassic of central Switzerland. Notoriously hard for the grade, with a challenging approach of traverses and with unobvious route finding at the start. First repeated only after two years, by Wolfgang Güllich.Rebolted in 2004-05, with additional bolts added beyond what the first ascentionists used. M. Scheel declared that he had a 'copyright' to his work of art, and so the original character was restored by removing 28 bolts. The spooky alpine feeling is back.. The first ascent party went ...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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