BETA PHOTO: Bockmattli Grosser Turm approach. After the scram...
The north face of Bockmattli has about a dozen impressive routes on varied limestone. Cracks, roofs, crumbling slopes, and well-protected routes make for a worthwhile trip.
Also home of Supertramp, a classic alpine route which does not fall into the 'well-protected' category!
More information here hikr.org/dir/Bockmattli_492/
Covered in Plaisir Ost and several other books.
An easy drive from Zurich, also accessible by train and bus to Innerthal. 1.5 hr approach up a winding road, passing through a dairy farm (you'll hear it before you see it), and up to a 'kletterhutte' (climbing hut, operated by the SAC).
One option is to take bikes along. From Innerthal you can bike more than halfway up (paved and dirt road), then push bikes up to the farm. Leave the bikes there and another 20 min later you're at the hutte. The bikes make the descent a blast.
Weather station 7.8 miles from here
4 Total Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Bockmattli
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Bockmattli:
Featured Route For Bockmattli
Dreimal kurz gelacht 6c 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Europe
P1 6b+ - A rough warmup. Crux after 3rd bolt, traversing right. Then some steep moves over a bulge. 40 m.P2 6b - Run out and steep with some tricky moves. Good fun! 30 m.P3 6c - Clip the 1st bolt, then go down and traverse low. Spectactular climbing on the best rock on the route, with intricate moves. Moves right to the arete towards the top. #2 cam useful here. Payback for the good climbing: crappy hanging belay at the end. 30 m.P4 6a - A monster pitch, and not a gimme for the rating. Wit...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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Bockmattli nordwarnd (left) and little Bockmattli
Bockmattli north face catching the sunset