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Art of Dreaming, The 
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Bobsled Direct Start aka War Sled 
Bobsled, The 
Caffeine Buzz 
Chore Boy 
Daily Grind, The 
Golden Slumber 
Lucky Strikes 
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My Buddy 
Not So Obscure 
Sleepless Child 
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Something Obscure 
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War On Freedom 

Bobsled Direct Start aka War Sled 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Vaino Kodas, Bob D'Antonio, 2001
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 915
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Apr 7, 2003
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BETA PHOTO: The Bobsled and Lucky Strikes.
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  • Description 

    Start just right of the "Bobsled". Make a series of difficult bouldering moves past three bolts. Clip the third bolt on the Bobsled with a long sling and finish with the Bobsled. Great climbing.


    12 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

    Comments on Bobsled Direct Start aka War Sled Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Joshua Merriam
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 9, 2008

    So, this now continues on its own independent line to the anchor above Lucky strikes for a 5.13 "War on Freedom"?

    By Joshua Merriam
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 14, 2008

    Rolofson lists this start as War Sled, and escaping the line even higher as Freedom Sled.

    His description of the full War on Freedom mentions stemming out to the holds on Bobsled, but I've been trying to stay the line.

    Edit: I finally unlocked the stopper move and know the line will go without any use of Bobsled holds. It's an intense high step/rock up move off the slopey crimp to the high sidepull seam. Now I just gotta put it all together on lead!

    By Andy Hansen
    From: Longmont, Colorado
    Apr 28, 2013
    rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

    Personally I think this route barely tips the scale at 5.12. A hard entrance move leads to easier climbing and then probably mid-11 climbing on Bobsled. More like 5.12a as the entrance moves are barely V4, but, nonetheless, this climb is good with a weird finish on Bobsled.