|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 23, 2004
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
A little hard for 5.8... The route is old school and there are some moves that require some thought and trial down low.The slot protects on a few nuts and smaller-than-hands cams before pulling up into it, where a few small cams can be placed overhead. Pull over the top of the slot to a decent ccrack on big holds and place gear at the top of the crack before it terminates. Continue to climb the arete (left side is the most interesting, but probably only 5.6). You will pass a single bolt on Mind Control, and clipping this is unneccesary, but comforting, or take long slings and clip the bolts on the 5.8 on the right side of the arete. At the ledge, contiguous with the top of the bolted 5.8 route on the right, continue up and over ona crack near the arete again, placing gear as you feel you need it. NEar the top sink a 2-3" cam in a good crack and traverse left to a belay at the top of Mind Control.
Between this and the 5.8 on the right, this is the better climb.