BETA PHOTO: 2nd pitch of Bobcat, from base. Savor them chicken...
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The beautiful, steep, curving thin crack R of Peanuts to Serve You. Start as for Peanuts, then cut R on easy ground (5.9) to reach a 2 bolt belay. Climb the crack, passing 2 bolts and 1 fixed pin to reach chains.
Includes thin laybacking, pocket pulling, tip-jamming, and knob climbing.
Caveat: I haven't climbed it yet. But I did take a picture today!
Same as Peanuts: It's above the L side of Private Idaho.
Lots of thin-finger sized gear, at least 4 quickdraws, plus a few hand-sized cams for the approach pitch.
Before the first bolt, it is nice to have a 1/2" stopper to place in the ramp crack ("Jack Robinson"), and just after the first bolt, you can put a hand-sized (red camalot) cam into the only hand pod. There is one more pod, this one thin hands, but then it is all thin - use the smallest TCUs and include several 000 cams.
Feeling the fangs on the Cringe
BETA PHOTO: The Bobcat Cringe follows the upper curving thin c...
Jan 13, 2012
Can be climbed in one pitch from the ground if the rope is pulled through once the two bolt anchor is reached. In the picture shown, the climb is actually the upper crack that is seen only as a margin between light and dark rock. Gear should emphasize finger size cams but include up to a gold C4. Doubles or triples are useful in the small to medium range. There are a couple of bolts on the climb as well. This has to be one of the best cracks around these parts, continuously overhung and splitter as can be.
|By Jon Nelson|
Jul 25, 2013
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b
The crack starts in space and ends in space, and curves like a snake in between. As the rock is dark above, white below, the resulting pattern is a little like the yin-yang symbol.
You can just reach into the bottom of the crack from the neighboring route, and when it ends, you have a few face moves to a ledge. Some have called it the best thin finger crack in WA.
In difficulty, it makes "I am in top a shader" (the stellar 11c finger crack just below on Private Idaho) seem like a 5.8 hand crack. Expect a fight for every jam.
Sep 22, 2013
But that's ignoring the face section on 'Shader', the crux of which likewise makes any single move on Bobcat seem like 5.8!