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Bobcat Cringe 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
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Page Views: 1,232
Submitted By: Eric Hirst on Nov 21, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: 2nd pitch of Bobcat, from base. Savor them chicken...

Description 

The beautiful, steep, curving thin crack R of Peanuts to Serve You. Start as for Peanuts, then cut R on easy ground (5.9) to reach a 2 bolt belay. Climb the crack, passing 2 bolts and 1 fixed pin to reach chains.

Includes thin laybacking, pocket pulling, tip-jamming, and knob climbing.

Caveat: I haven't climbed it yet. But I did take a picture today!

Location 

Same as Peanuts: It's above the L side of Private Idaho.

Protection 

Lots of thin-finger sized gear, at least 4 quickdraws, plus a few hand-sized cams for the approach pitch.

Before the first bolt, it is nice to have a 1/2" stopper to place in the ramp crack ("Jack Robinson"), and just after the first bolt, you can put a hand-sized (red camalot) cam into the only hand pod. There is one more pod, this one thin hands, but then it is all thin - use the smallest TCUs and include several 000 cams.


Photos of Bobcat Cringe Slideshow Add Photo
Feeling the fangs on the Cringe
Feeling the fangs on the Cringe
The Bobcat Cringe follows the upper curving thin c...
BETA PHOTO: The Bobcat Cringe follows the upper curving thin c...
Fun!
Fun!

Comments on Bobcat Cringe Add Comment
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By Drewsky
Jan 13, 2012

Can be climbed in one pitch from the ground if the rope is pulled through once the two bolt anchor is reached. In the picture shown, the climb is actually the upper crack that is seen only as a margin between light and dark rock. Gear should emphasize finger size cams but include up to a gold C4. Doubles or triples are useful in the small to medium range. There are a couple of bolts on the climb as well. This has to be one of the best cracks around these parts, continuously overhung and splitter as can be.
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
Jul 25, 2013
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

The crack starts in space and ends in space, and curves like a snake in between. As the rock is dark above, white below, the resulting pattern is a little like the yin-yang symbol.

You can just reach into the bottom of the crack from the neighboring route, and when it ends, you have a few face moves to a ledge. Some have called it the best thin finger crack in WA.

In difficulty, it makes "I am in top a shader" (the stellar 11c finger crack just below on Private Idaho) seem like a 5.8 hand crack. Expect a fight for every jam.
By Drewsky
Sep 22, 2013

But that's ignoring the face section on 'Shader', the crux of which likewise makes any single move on Bobcat seem like 5.8!
By kerwinl
Jun 26, 2014

Impressive onsight Drewsky, the upper crux felt hard for my chubby fingers. Such an inspiring line, one of the coolest I have tried at index!

Gear wise, I felt that a set of C3's grey-red, plus blue alien,BD .4/.75/#1, + quick draws made the climb feel good. The upper section above the piton, but below the last bolt requires thin cams (grey-purple c3), or maybe some tiny offset nuts.
By Jens Holsten
Oct 4, 2014

Phenomenal route!!