This route climbs a tricky slab to a left leaning and slightly overhanging seam. The crux is pulling off the slab into the seam. once you get this keep moving. This route packs a pump but it seemed to be all there, a foot or hand exactly where I needed one. Or maybe I just got it perfectly that day.
10 bolts to BLTD anchor
|Comments on Bobby's Got a Dirty Mouth
|By Nick Stayner|
From: The Magic City
Jun 4, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a
Fantastic, incredible moves. Must do.
I actually thought the crux was the opening moves. Maybe I didn't catch the right nubbins, but I found it damn hard, much harder than any of the moves in the overhanging terrain above.