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 ADVANCED
Chimney Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
8th and Main T 
Amanecer S 
Another Roadside Attraction T 
Boardwalk T 
Centerpiece T 
Coherent Excitation T 
Copperhead 5 T 
Crows Nest T 
Electric Aunt Jemimah in Heat T 
FIUTT 
George's Buttress T,TR 
Georges Peach T,S 
Jungle Gym T 
Mistaken Identity T 
New Year's Eve T 
Perfect Peter T 
Shriveled Penis T 
Single Lens Reflex T 
Standard Route T 
Stonedmasters T 
Stoner's Boner T 
Straight Arrow T 
Stripper T 
Tomorrow is Today S 
Unstrung Harp T 
Venus' Flytrap And Environs T,TR 
Venus' Flytrap And Environs. T,S,TR 
Veranda T 
Yardarm variation to Crows Nest T 

Boardwalk 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Dave Baker & Jake Bender
Page Views: 802
Submitted By: Almonzo on Nov 1, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

Boardwalk is a fun and varied all trad route. It protects pretty well and is substantially easier than the other 5.7s on Chimney Rock (i.e. George's Buttress and the Standard Route). About the only potential problem is rope drag, as the route does meander back and forth a bit.

Approach: Scrable up to the base of Chimney Rock, which will put you below and a little east of George's Buttress. Head east (right) along the base of the rock to about 75' past the start of the Standard Route. The base is among an inviting batch of manzanitas. Looking up you'll be below a dramatic leaning tower (Stonedmaster Pillar) that is detached from the main wall.

The Climb: Head up and right on the brushy ramp to a flake on the face left of the main crack. Traverse left (crux) and follow the diagonal crack/ramp with a shrub midway up. Below the roof, traverse to bypass it on the right. Head straight up via fun and relaxed climbing to the summit. There are two old hangers for an anchor up top and an easy walkoff on the backside.


Protection 

A range of cams is handy, from finger size to 3-4".



Comments on Boardwalk Add Comment
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By Almonzo
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Nov 3, 2003

This is a Grade I climb. Sorry for the typo.

By Timothy Roehr
From: Tucson,Az
Nov 7, 2006

Sorry, but I have to disagree this is the easiest route of the grade here. The standard route has a bolt protected crux, while this one, at least for me, has two underprotected cruxes.

Also, watch for debris falling off the ledge.

By dale polen
From: arivaca, az
Dec 12, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R

Great climb. Use long runners and dont over protect. This a classic example of having to run it our you will get some rope drag. so if you cant climb 5.5 10 to 15 feet above your protection this may not be the climb 4 you. I would rate this 5.6. Run outs dont account for difficulty so I disagree with the above said. Great climb and so awesome that some dink has not bolted it. Thanks.