Boardwalk 5.7
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | Dave Baker & Jake Bender |
| Submitted By: | Almonzo on Nov 1, 2003 |
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Description Boardwalk is a fun and varied all trad route. It protects pretty well and is substantially easier than the other 5.7s on Chimney Rock (i.e. George's Buttress and the Standard Route). About the only potential problem is rope drag, as the route does meander back and forth a bit. Approach: Scrable up to the base of Chimney Rock, which will put you below and a little east of George's Buttress. Head east (right) along the base of the rock to about 75' past the start of the Standard Route. The base is among an inviting batch of manzanitas. Looking up you'll be below a dramatic leaning tower (Stonedmaster Pillar) that is detached from the main wall. The Climb: Head up and right on the brushy ramp to a flake on the face left of the main crack. Traverse left (crux) and follow the diagonal crack/ramp with a shrub midway up. Below the roof, traverse to bypass it on the right. Head straight up via fun and relaxed climbing to the summit. There are two old hangers for an anchor up top and an easy walkoff on the backside.
Protection A range of cams is handy, from finger size to 3-4".
By Almonzo Nov 3, 2003
| This is a Grade I climb. Sorry for the typo. |
By Timothy Roehr From: Tucson,Az Nov 7, 2006
| Sorry, but I have to disagree this is the easiest route of the grade here. The standard route has a bolt protected crux, while this one, at least for me, has two underprotected cruxes. Also, watch for debris falling off the ledge. |
By dale polen From: arivaca, az Dec 12, 2010 rating: 5.6 R
| Great climb. Use long runners and dont over protect. This a classic example of having to run it our you will get some rope drag. so if you cant climb 5.5 10 to 15 feet above your protection this may not be the climb 4 you. I would rate this 5.6. Run outs dont account for difficulty so I disagree with the above said. Great climb and so awesome that some dink has not bolted it. Thanks. |
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