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Bluff Cliffs
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Bluff Cliffs One T 

Bluff Cliffs One 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Todd Gordon, Brian Povolny, Jan, 1983.
Page Views: 209
Submitted By: toddgordon on May 27, 2007

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This is the place. Todd Gordon at the base of Bluf...

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Description 

This is the 3rd crack system left of the edge of the cliff. Climb up a groove, then into a squeeze, and then lieback up the right side of a pillar. Rap from a piton and a fixed stopper.

Location 

Between mile marker 18 and 19 , about 5 miles south of Bluff, Utah, on U S 191.

Protection 

maybe a double set of cams.


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By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
May 27, 2007

This climb sucks. We had driven by this cliff many times and saw cracks. The day we climbed here, we had actually tried to reach a large frozen waterfall which is south of Lukaichukai, and very visible WAY up high on the skyline from the main road, but we couldn't find a way to get to it. We didn't want to waste the day, so we drove north and hiked up the this cliffband. The rock is very soft, and the climbing seemed dicey. The anchor is probably crap too. I don't recommend climbing here. I see in Eric's Desert Rock IV that ther is another route now on this cliff; a 5.11 climb put up by Brett Ruckman and Tim Coats. That climb is called Crow's Feet, and is just to the left of Bluff Cliffs One.