I recently got some of the bluewater 5.5 dynamo cord and was using it for anchors, My partner told me that the dyneema is bad to use as its strength is reduced when a knot is tied in it. Has anyone heard of problems associated with the dyneema cord and anchors?
"In climbing, cord and webbing made of combinations of UHMWPE and nylon yarn have gained popularity for their low weight and bulk, though, unlike their nylon counterparts, they exhibit very low elasticity, making them unsuitable for limiting forces in a fall. Also, low elasticity translates to low toughness. The fiber's very high lubricity leads to poor knot-holding ability, and has led to the recommendation to use the triple fisherman's knot rather than the traditional double fisherman's knot in 6mm UHMWPE core cord to avoid a particular failure mechanism of the double fisherman's, where first the sheath fails at the knot, then the core slips through." - Wiki
20 kN
·
May 23, 2015
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Feb 2009
· Points: 1,346
You're fine. No one ever died because their dyneema anchor broke. Yes, a knot will reduce the strength, but it's still going to be stronger than 6mm nylon which is extremely common in anchors. Personally, I think dyneema cord for anchors is pointless as 5.5mm dyneema is no lighter than 6mm nylon, which works fine for anchors, but it's twice the cost and more than twice as stiff. So there are few, if any, advantages.
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