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the business ahead
Tuolumne is not a destination for flawless crack climbs, but there are a few notable exceptions, Blues Riff being one of them. This pitch would be classic no matter where it would be. Originally rated 5.11d, it has since been down-rated to as low as 5.11b, but although the crux is brief, it is probably solid 5.11.
Most climb only through the second pitch and then rap with double ropes.
P1: Begin about 100' right of the obvious crack system of Phobos at a section of friable rock protected by a new bolt. This short pitch was changed significantly in recent rockfall, but is still climbable at 5.10c. Climb up to the first bolt (a small cam helps), then reach left and crank through the roof on large, flexing holds -- be very careful about what you pull on here! Continue up a short, ugly hand crack to a nice ledge below the second pitch. Belay from some fixed slings and possibly a #3 Camalot.
P2: Step up onto the face above and ascend it past a bolt to a stance. Have a few medium wires or finger-size cams ready, and then climb up the finger crack (crux) to an obvious sharp horizontal "rest" jug. Continue up the beautiful thin-hands crack to a final wide section (#3 Camalot) to a bolted anchor. It is possible to rap from here with two 60m ropes, or one can continue up the wide flake to the summit and walk off.
Triples in hand-size cams, doubles in fingers, and one or two #3 Camalots.
Linking pitch 1 into the beautiful black streak ab...
Abel on Blues Riff.
Darek on P2.
Darek on P2.
Dec 1, 2006
This climb is beyond words. A must do for the grade. Perfect pro on the second pitch.
|By Michael Sokoloff|
From: Spokane, WA
Jul 11, 2007
5.11 crackclimbing does not get much better than this. After a well-prod thin crux to start the second pitch, it becomes a test of staying power and corestrength to persevere the overhanging crack above on varied but mostly handjams.
|By Greg DeMatteo|
From: W. Lebanon, NH
Apr 7, 2008
So exposed and such a steep, wide open face. Really incredible climbing.
Jul 2, 2008
Truly a standout climb. Combine the first 2 pitches into a long enduro pitch.
|By Nick Stayner|
From: The Magic City
Sep 3, 2008
Absolutely unbelievable, heaven-sent splitter of the gods. Extremely aesthetic and every move is incredible. Yet another Bard classic--how did he find all these amazing cracks?
|By Brandon R.|
From: San Mateo, CA
Aug 24, 2009
the third pitch is a little adventurous and run out, but definitely worth doing once.
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 23, 2010
Very good route, one of my favorite climbing in Yosemite. A sure must.
|By trying hard|
From: East side Sierra
Aug 23, 2010
rating: 5.11c PG13
First pitch is a little sporty and there are one or two holds that seem scary to grab, but they seemed to be solid. Climb through a mini roof and mantle to a nice hand crack that is bomber.
Belay for Pitch one and leading off for money pitch is a huge ledge and there is fixed gear. I would just add a piece for back up, make sure to inspect the cordalete before belaying or repelling off it though.
The money pitch has a scary loose boulder you could start on the right, or start on the left and grab huge jugs to a huge jug rail and move over into the first little bit of ly backing.
You get a great rest before firing the crux, and at this spot you can place a couple pieces before you go for it. From here you only have about 8 to 10 feet max of climbing to your first big rest then the climbing eases up in grade, but get ready for endurance test, you got it!
Dec 4, 2010
i was very dissapointed with this climb weird boulder problem crux to an easy crack and a lot shorter than i expected.maybe i,m a snob[my wife thinks so] but i have climbed all over and this would not make my c list in other areas imho .
|By bob wert|
Jul 10, 2011
heppnerd, sound like you're describing the first pitch. It does have a weird bouldery problem that goes to an easy crack. And it's shorter than anyone expects! And it wouldn't make anyone's c list by itself ieho (in everyone's humble opinion, trade marked here)
|By Greg Barnes|
Oct 1, 2011
Warning: there is a bolted anchor on the top of the cliff about 50' right of the finish of Blues Riff and Phobos. This anchor has NO ANCHORS BELOW within reach of two 60m ropes - do NOT use!
Thanks to Katrina Managan and partners for the warning!