Blues Power  5.12b

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch Consensus:  5.12b [details] FA:  Skip Guerin and Bob Horan, 1981 Fixed Hardware:  2 Belay Bolts [details] Submitted By:  Pinklebear on Aug 20, 2001 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Patrick Edlinger sends Blues Power. Photo: Bob Hor...

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Description 

This route is in the very overhanging, west-facing alcove at the base of the West Ridge, just below the sector of the wall containing Washington Irving, The Unsaid, etc. To get here, scramble east up via slightly exposed corners and ramps (Class 4) from the West Ridge Trail.

Blues Power is the leftmost crack in the alcove and trends right to left, ending at a fixed anchor below the lip of the alcove. Proceed with caution -- the beginning of the "crack" is actually a huge, hollow flake cammed up into the rock. Once you establish a good piece past this flake, you'll feel much better. Continuous, strenuous and bizzare.

Protection 

This "crack" goes from fingers to hands to off-hands. Bring lots of small-mid range TCUs and Camalots in the #1, 2 and 3 range.