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Blues for Mowgli 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Keith Becconsall 05/01
Page Views: 816
Submitted By: lee hansche on Dec 4, 2008

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This line is more fun than it looks and packs quite a punch. It feels like its on the hard side of the grade so show up ready to crank. Steep climbing up the imposing arete requires core tension, a precise sequence and a dash of raw power. Though the crux section is only about 15 feet long it feels like twice that.

Start at the base of a slab with 2 bolts on it. Climb the moderate slab to a roomy ledge where you will be able to clip 2 or 3 bolts before you really have to commit. This is where the fun begins. Make your way left under the roof toward the arete feature, the holds are a bit awkward and indistinct. Reach left to a good shallow slot in a steep face and make a hard move to a pretty good crimp above with your right. Gain a couple of goodish holds up and left then power up and toss to a crack and then a jug before making more moderate moves to mantel the lip using nice finger locks. Up the short slab to the anchors.

There is a contrived right hand finish which is harder and a bit silly in my opinion.


Climbs the slab and the super steep arete on the far left buttress of Triple Corners.


8 bolts to fixed lower off biners. The 6th bolt is a little hard to clip.

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By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 15, 2009

I one hung this route today... the crux is definitely clipping the 6th bolt... but the moves are so cool and fun...
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 25, 2009

i finally sent this today! the crux sequence is one of my favorite hard sequences ive climbed...

oh and clip the 6th bolt when its at your waist once you are ready to send...
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Aug 25, 2009

nice dude! sick send! and i like how you go sharma style and just skip the bolt haha :)
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 25, 2009

thanks! the crux for me is about 8 moves long and that bolt is right in the middle so clipping it was a really big factor for me...
By M Sprague
From: New England
Oct 14, 2009
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Keith Becconsall did the FA. I think this is one of his best routes and it is fiendishly hard to me. Definitely a sandbag at 12c in the old book
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 15, 2009

i gave keith credit, thanks mark... and yeah, REALLY FUN!!! and hard for 5.12c i would like more folks to climb it and chime in on the grade but no one knows there is a gem waiting out there...
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