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Blue's Buttress
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British
Avg: 2 from 55 votes
Type: | Trad, Alpine, 800 ft (242 m), 10 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Larry Goldie, Blue Bradley |
Page Views: | 4,942 total · 48/month |
Shared By: | Mike Lewis on Sep 28, 2015 |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Access Issue: Washington Pass Fire Closure Lifted
Details
Washington Pass Climbing was closed on 8/15/23 due to the Blue Lake Fire until further notice. On 9/7/23 this closure was reduced in size. On 9/22 this was reduced again, opening all WA Climbing Routes. For remaining closures, see:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/okawen/a…
fs.usda.gov/alerts/okawen/a…
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July
Details
Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Contact the NPS and/or WCC for updates.
Description
Good, fun, easy alpine route. Ian's guidebook gives great information for this route, so I won't belabor the point. I will say that once you are on route, stop looking at the guidebook or topo. Just stay on the ridge following the line of least resistance. Experienced alpinists will enjoy this route as a solo. This route has a lot of loose rocks on it. Be careful climbing under other parties. A planned trundle-party where no one is underneath the route would make this route a lot better. The rock quality is okay, never really more than that.
Location
See the Poster Peak page and Ian's guidebook for approach details. Once up under Poster Peak at treeline, look for the buttress with the large obvious roof. Traverse around the left (SE) side of the buttress and look for the easy ledges that give access to the ridge.
Descent: Walk SE off the summit to the col along the SE ridge at 7130'. Hike down the loose gully back to the base of the buttresses. Catch the cairns back to the Haripin.
Descent: Walk SE off the summit to the col along the SE ridge at 7130'. Hike down the loose gully back to the base of the buttresses. Catch the cairns back to the Haripin.
Protection
Experienced alpinists will get by with a single rack, a few runners. For those more new to the game and if you'd like to have more options when you run out of rope and are on a ledge with only one crack to work with, you may want a double rack up to #3, 6-7 runners. A double-length runner or two comes in handy when trying to reduce rope-drag on long leads through all the various ledges.
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