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5.8 Crag
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5.8 Crack by the Road, The T 
Arm and Hammer S 
Asbury Park S 
Blue Spotted Tail TR 
Blueballs at Christmas T 
Bolt And Run S 
Central Park TR 
Chimney of Doom T 
Granny's Route S 
License to Ill T 
Milksnake T 
Milktoast S 
Moe Pup Sensation S 
Only a Crow S 
Pump Up the Volume S 
Raven S 
Romancing The Snake T 
Romancing the Stone S 
Sky Pilot T,S 
Snake Skin Slab S 
Terrace, The S 

Blueballs at Christmas 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jim Shimberg 1994
Page Views: 947
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 23, 2007

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Note: New route moratorium area. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Blueballs is a super committing lead on very small gear for the first 40-50 feet. Most people toprope it, and it's probably a good thing because not everyone has the skills and cool head that is required to climb a hard R rated route like this. I worked it out on toprope first, then led it with one piece of gear (a purple TCU) and a few draws for the bolts at the top. I hear the TCU is bomber, but I don't wish to test it.

Starting to the right of the classic, Romancing the Stone (5.10c), climb the face on tiny crimps eventually meeting up with Romancing at its right trending traverse, at which point you will have some bolts to clip. Crimpy, crimpy, crimpy.

Location 

Climb the face just right of Romancing the Stone (5.10c).

Protection 

A few draws and small gear, I used a purple TCU in a letter box slot about half way up the face section. I hear you can get other stuff in too, such as micro wires, but I didn't see them.


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By Jeremiah Johnson
From: Hershey PA
Mar 5, 2008

C3's work great on this route. And, there's a good C3 placement up at the top (once you're in the Romancing the Stone traverse), so you can lead this without clipping any bolts at all and still stay safe at the top.
By twellman
Mar 10, 2010

I did the blue balls start today on toprope up to the romancing traverse, and it was real awesome climbing. Good reachy crimpy tricky stuff. I would say it felt easier than 11c, and it's actually in the new guide as 11b which is probly what I'd pin on it. Certainly the moves would have been harder to commit to with some questionable trad gear backing me up... maybe some day.