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Blueballs at Christmas
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British R
Avg: 2.4 from 18
votes
Routes in 5.8 Crag
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5.8 Crack by the Road, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Arm and Hammer S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Asbury Park S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Blue Spotted Tail TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Blueballs at Christmas T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Bolt And Run S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Central Park TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Chimney of Doom T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Granny's Route S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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License to Ill T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Milksnake T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Milktoast S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Moe Pup Sensation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Only a Crow S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pump Up the Volume S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Raven S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Romancing The Snake T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Romancing the Stone S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sky Pilot S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Snake Skin Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Terrace, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | Jim Shimberg 1994 |
| Page Views: | 2,505 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on Mar 23, 2007 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
Blueballs is a super committing lead on very small gear for the first 40-50 feet. Most people toprope it, and it's probably a good thing because not everyone has the skills and cool head that is required to climb a hard R rated route like this. I worked it out on toprope first, then led it with one piece of gear (a purple TCU) and a few draws for the bolts at the top. I hear the TCU is bomber, but I don't wish to test it.
Starting to the right of the classic, Romancing the Stone (5.10c), climb the face on tiny crimps eventually meeting up with Romancing at its right trending traverse, at which point you will have some bolts to clip. Crimpy, crimpy, crimpy.
Starting to the right of the classic, Romancing the Stone (5.10c), climb the face on tiny crimps eventually meeting up with Romancing at its right trending traverse, at which point you will have some bolts to clip. Crimpy, crimpy, crimpy.
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