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 ADVANCED
John Bryan State Park
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Left TR 
Black Right TR 
Blue TR 
Blue Left TR 
Blue Right TR 
Green TR 
Green Left TR 
Green Right TR 
Mavericks Boulder, Gleaming the Tube V3+ 
Mavericks Boulder, Pulling Tubes V6 
Mavericks Boulder, Ripping waves 
Orange Left TR 
Orange Right TR 
Pink TR 
Pink Left TR 
Pink Middle  TR 
Red TR 
Red Left TR 
Red Middle TR 
Yellow TR 
Yellow Left TR 
Yellow Middle TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Blue 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 25'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 493
Submitted By: bill urbanski on Sep 28, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: At the bottom of the blue route is some logs and r...

Description 

Left side offers a bouldering start with some decent finger pockets to pull through the first ten feet. eases up for a juggy finish. Starting at the vertical crack directly below the right anchor, traverse slightly right to finish on right anchor, or traverse left to finish below left anchor.

Location 

park at Wingo Picnic Area. take path to cliff top. right at wooden overlook deck, and take trail 50-100 feet. Anchors are 20 feet left off trail at top of cliff and easily identifiable.

Protection 

top rope only. two bomber eye-bolt anchors. given their distance apart and away from top lip, using both creates too much rope drag.


Photos of Blue Slideshow Add Photo
Blue Route, left side
Blue Route, left side
First climb on the blue route. 8/22/12
First climb on the blue route. 8/22/12
4 different routes we tried on the 3rd blue anchor
BETA PHOTO: 4 different routes we tried on the 3rd blue anchor

Comments on Blue Add Comment
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By Zach Wahrer
From: The Road
Dec 19, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Just bring long webbing and several locking biners and you can easily use both eyebolts to have a solid, redundant anchor on any of the routes in JB. Much safer than just using one of the bolts.