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Blue Wind 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jim Matthews/Mike Roy July 2009
Page Views: 463
Submitted By: JimM on Nov 7, 2010

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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


Finger crack with some face climbing, 140 feet.


The route is the third crack to the west of Ed's Jam. Approach from the ramp to the west (class 3) or from the ground below Ed's Jam. You can rap the route with two ropes (140 to the ledge, 180 feet to the ground) or top out after the second reaches the anchor. Take care to avoid the rubble above if topping out. You can then rap with a single rope in the Bend West area or walk off in either direction.


single set of nuts, double set of cams up to .75 camalot and 1 each #1, #2 camalot size. Two anchor bolts at top of route.

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By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Jul 27, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Jim, I get really confused with the cracks, anchors, columns at Tieton. Is this the next crack right of Satori, 10b through roof? It has red slings on hangers. We did the one next right- Riptide? very sketchy gear at the bottom, with 10a moves and small roof pull on juggy hold near top, then small technical crack. anchor has cordellete.
By JimM
Aug 21, 2015

Yes, you are correct Geoff. Blue Wind is the crack immediately right (climbers right) of Satori, and you correctly described Riptide. The gear is a little tricky at the start of Riptide but you get a few good pieces before the crux. It probably is 10a. Other people have said that it feels more like 10a than the 5.9 grade I gave it.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Sep 8, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Very spicy hot sauce start on this, I thought Riptide was hard to protect, this is a little more perplexing. I tried to stay directly below the crack that goes to the anchor with red sling. I found 2 good placements- #1 or #2 Camelot then rock up on ledgy foot with no hands gently reach over to crack on the left- good .75 blind placement. Follow this finger crack till horizontal, then crack on right is mostly 5.9- really fun, some 10a near top. I would go with double cams to #2, large or double set of nuts would work well too.
I think the red sling has been there maybe since 1st ascent, could use some chain.

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