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 ADVANCED
Mid-Town
Routes Sorted
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Arete, The 
Blue Velvet 
Cliff Nazi 
cracker jack 
El Nino 
Guchi 
Lech 
Pillar of Pummel 
Pokey 
Rational Expectation 
Roof, The 
Side Straddle Hop 
Sloopy 
Squeeze 
Warm Up 

Blue Velvet 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Chris Grijalva
Page Views: 157
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Oct 22, 2012
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Description 

This challenging route may feel quite stiff for the 12b grade for the OS. However with some beta refinement, it may feel slightly less stiff, but still hard for the grade.
After stickclipping the first bolt grab a sloping jug at full reach. Challenging moves to get established above the undercut wall lead to a quick shake and the second bolt. Here the devious crux presents itself. Figure out how to reach the small crimp and continue upwards on small sloping crimps to the third bolt and another quick shake. Continue up on more small crimps and figure out how to get to the above horizontal and a good shake. From here a few tenuous moves to get over the roof leads to an easy slab and the anchors.


Location 

Starts around the middle of the Mid-Town area. To the left is "Efflorescence" 12c and to the right is a unfinished Project, then "The Roof" 12b. Second route right of Sloopy.


Protection 

5 Bolts to Anchors, recommended stick clip the first.



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By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Oct 22, 2012

For short climbers the crux may feel really challenging. I was shut down by the reach on my first go, but after getting some beta from my climbing partner, I was able to stick the crux, first try and redpoint. I'm 5`6" and was able to make the reach statically with the better beta.