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This is the bolted face between Schiester and Farley. Start off the ramp leading to scheister, you can clip the first bolt before committing to the tricky opening move.
Reachy clip for 2nd bolt, then trend right and back left to keep the grade sub 11. Crux is a smear up high.
Stellar route, sustained balancy movement between knobs and edges. Not a power route at all, all balance, finesse and footwork.
The route takes 2 more pitches and tops out, but the final pitch is R. Last two pitches are seldom done.
bolted face between scheister and Farley.
From: San Francisco
Apr 1, 2009
Opening moves are definitely the crux. I'm tall, so I started out high left and worked my way over to the right.
One other easier crux up higher when transitioning from the right to the left.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 7, 2010
Multiple cruxes and very sustained. One of my partners led this and went way right toward the Farley flake about 3-4 bolts up, but this made clipping difficult at a spot or two (although the Supertopo sketch indicates this is 'on route').
I toproped the route and stayed fairly direct between bolts, but going this way required me to make a move over a rounded arete that was in the 11 range. The bolt placements in this section seem to be strange if the grade is to stay in the 10c range; the clipping stances appeared kind of contrived from what I observed. But overall, the route is awesome on bomber granite.
From: THA WEST COAST
Jan 29, 2011
Beautiful route, sustained the whole way. Found moves above 1st bolt most exciting until 2nd clip was made. Stellar knob climbing!