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Redgarden - Roof Routes
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blue Steel T 
Clear the Deck T 
Clever Lever S 
Dangerous Acquaintances T 
Downpressor Man S 
Evangeline S 
Fire and Ice  T,S 
Gem, The T 
Guardian Saint T 
Guen-Ice  T 
Guenese T 
Hands In The Clouds T,S 
Huck Off T,S 
Kloeberdanz T 
Kloeberdeath/ Candallegro T 
Last Rite T 
Le Toit T 
Le Toit Direct T 
Le Verne T 
Lipsync T,S 
Mean Lean T 
Psycho S 
Rosy Toit T 
Scary Canary T 
Temporary Like Achilles T,S 
Trippin T 
Tubesock Tanline T 
Wasabe S 
Wisdom, The T 

Blue Steel 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Andy Donson and Jonathan Copp
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 754
Submitted By: Andy Donson on Jun 18, 2003

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  • Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>
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  • Description 

    This route takes a vertical line from the start of The Wisdom to the belay ledge atop P.1 of Le Toit. It combines a poorly protected 10+ lower section with a powerful bulge above the "rotten band". Start as for The Wisdom but head left up a flake (which vibrates!) into a shallow R-facing dihedral. Bomber RPs can be placed here. Climb the dihedral and trend R into the rotten band where you can bury some medium cams. Climb through the steepness, on large holds, to reach an obvious blocky undercling and excellent gear (#3.5 - #2.5 Friends and a #2 Rock). Take a deep breath and head up and right through the overlap, just left of a rounded arête, to reach a small resting ledge (crux). An incipient crack leads straight up to the bolted cave belay on Le Toit.

    We headpointed the route, but it could definitely be led ground up. We cleared away most of the looseness and despite some major efforts, we failed to budge the vibrating flake at the start.

    Protection 

    Take a single rack of cams from blue alien up to #3.5 friend, and a set of small nuts.


    Comments on Blue Steel Add Comment
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    By Anonymous Coward
    Aug 30, 2004

    You guys are truly onspiring!! Good job!
    By EDJ
    From: Eldorado Springs, Colorado
    Oct 29, 2012
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R

    Fun route...very roof routesque, kinda a one move wonder and not the hardest 12b around at that....