Blue Moon 5.5
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| Type: | Sport, 3 pitches, 600 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.5 [details] |
| FA: | Bob Branscomb, Ed DeLong 2006 |
| Submitted By: | bob branscomb on Mar 18, 2009 |
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BETA PHOTO: Blue Moon on Moonstone.
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Sticky situation MORE INFO >>>
This place is desolate and dangerous WYO desert with very few amenities nearby, and zero assistance should you find your pretty-little-self in a bind.
The people are ornery and the land is mean. I don't recommend coming here at all. If the rednecks, miners, roughnecks vagabonds or land doesn't get ya, some dehydrated whacked-out windblown sunbeaten climber just might. . . . Sweetwater Rocks and adjacent areas require LOW-profiles and LOTS of respect and consideration. Keep all fences/gates as you found them. Do not build fires. Adhere to all posted signs. Do not drive off of existing paths (roads). Do not let your dog run around (chances are great that it'll be shot, bitten, trampled or fed upon). Do not take anything from this land. . . and do not leave anything. Good BLM quads are essential (make sure they're up to date). Granite Mtns (Sweetwater) area closures are adjustable and are done so via ranchers and BLM officiales. Great tracts of this area are privately owned; meaning that they are always closed. For example: Lankin Dome BLM as of last year was closed 04-30 thru 06-31 for public AND private lands; between 03-01 thru 04-31 it was closed on private land. So, sometimes private easements are opened, and sometimes they aren't. . . same with public lands; oh, and mining claims too! Pay particular attention to any signage and postings.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This is a more led out affair than a lot of the routes here. The first pirch only has three or four bolts for 60m, but the pitches are only 5.5-5.6. This route goes straight up the shallow water trough until directly under the large roof at the top of the wall. First and second pitches are about equal difficulty.
Location Drive into Moonstone and park at the cabin. Above the cabin is a wide slab with a long roof system capping the top. Blue Moon follows the shallow water trough in a plumb line slightly left of the right end of this roof system.
Protection Bolts, 3/8" Fixx. Fixx rappel rings at each belay. Rappel the route. 60m rope required. Two 60m ropes required to rappel the route.
Patty leads the first pitch of Blue Moon.
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By Brian in SLC
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 4, 2009
rating: 5.4
| Can also top out by climbing up and to the right of the edge of the roofy area above the last belay station. Then walk back around to the left (above the roof) and follow low angle slab back to the base.
I have in my notes that the third pitch is 35 meters, and the first and second pitches are 30+ meters. Makes for at most a 400 foot route rather than 3 pitches and 600 feet.
P1: 3 bolts. P2 4 bolts. P3 3 bolts. At least that's what my notes say (!).
Fun route! |
By bob branscomb
From: Lander, WY
Sep 17, 2009
| With all due respect, I think you may have mis-measured the pitch lengths. |
By Brian in SLC
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 17, 2009
rating: 5.4
| Could be, Bob. We did all three pitches in around an hour and since we're slow... Seemed like the Flake Route was more of a rope stretcher and went up a bunch higher on the Dome (but still not full rope lengths).
On the list for a repeat, though, and I'll mind the rope length a bit more closely. Cheers! |
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