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Blue Gramma Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blue Gramma T 
Dawn of an Age T,TR 
Desert Siren (Tower) T,S 
Event Horizon, The T 
Formerly Aided T 
Hayley's Heyday T 
left of 5.10 flake T 
Moon Goddess Revenge T 
Orion's Bow T 
Petrelli Motors T 
Price of Evil, The T 
Unknown far left T 
Unknown far left - II T 
Unnamed (far right side - big hands to OW bulge) T 
Unnamed 10+ (steep thin hands dihedral to pod) T 
Unnamed 11 (shares BG anchor) T 
Unnamed 5.10 Flake T 
Unnamed 9+ (big hands dihedral) T 
Unnamed II (fingers through fists) T 
Unsorted Routes:

Blue Gramma 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: unknown
Season: fall to spring.
Page Views: 4,406
Submitted By: Tony B on Apr 2, 2006

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Mitch "the muscle" Musci showing some style.

Description 

Climb up an initial steep move with a 1" or 1.5" cam to access the flake and slab- climb up easy moves leap-frogging the 1" or 1.5" gear to save it for later if you are shy on gear. Continue up to darker and steeper rock, placing a few larger cams (1-2 each 2"-3.5" cams) in wide spots, again to save your 1" and 1.5" gear. Access a good 'pod' in the flake which provides a great stance from which to launch the assault on the meat of the route- the next 10 meters, which will be primarily lie-backs with surprisingly good feet.

Dump any big gear you have left at the low end of this pod then place a 1" cam and a 1.5" cam above it and go. 2-4 more 1.5" placements will get you to the lower angle climbing. Put in gear where you have the best footholds and run between them. Just as you get too pumped, the lower angle rock arrives with a few good jams and a placement for a 2" cam. Finish on the slabby moves to clip a 3-chain anchor.

I gave this climb 5.11- relative to "Formerly Aided" and "Unnamed" which are also rated 5.11 at that cliff and both substantially harder.


Location 

Toward the Right Side of Blue Gramma Cliff, this route is not difficult to find. Locate a light-colored slab with a huge, obtuse, dusty, and un-chalked left-facing flake above it's center (un-named 5.11) and a sweet obtuse finger-crack/flake in dark rock to it's right (Blue Gramma).


Protection 

(2-3) 1" cams,
(4-6) 1.5" cams
1 each, 2" 2.5" & 3"
3.5" optional.
The larger pieces and leapfrogging down low make only 1 1" and 3 1.5" cams necessary for a decent lead, but more can be helpful.



Photos of Blue Gramma Slideshow Add Photo
Mitch getting ready for the business
Mitch getting ready for the business
Stef on the slabby start
Stef on the slabby start
Sharina relaxing in the pod before the business starts.
Sharina relaxing in the pod before the business st...
Blue Gramma
Blue Gramma
Here is where I begin to feel the pump.  This climb reminded me a lot of Ice Cream Parlor Crack near Moab.  Same move over and over...amazing route.
Here is where I begin to feel the pump. This clim...
Tony Bubb starts up the moderate, but slick start of 'Blue Gramma' (5.11) in Indian Creek. Photo by I-forget-who.
Tony Bubb starts up the moderate, but slick start ...
Sharina getting into the business.
Sharina getting into the business.
Tony Bubb rides out the finish to Blue Gramma (5.11) at Blue Gramma cliff in Indaina Creek. A fine obtuse corner. Photo by Trey or John, 2006.
Tony Bubb rides out the finish to Blue Gramma (5.1...
Blue Gramma, quite a hard warm-up, best route on the wall
Blue Gramma, quite a hard warm-up, best route on t...
Comments on Blue Gramma Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anthony Stout
Administrator
From: Albuquerque, NM
Apr 3, 2006
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Ahhhh, 5.11-? It's gotta be at least one point higher than that! Have not climbed any 5.11 creek climbs yet but the three 5.11- climbs I have attempted I have done onsite. I fell three times from the top of this route before I could complete it!

Maybe I just haven't done enough creek 11s but this seemed harder than .11- to me. Or, maybe I wasn't stemming enough but that top part was rough lay back moves for me!

By Brian Weinstein
Sep 28, 2007
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Beautiful line in a prime setting.

By Dave Brock
May 19, 2008

HARD 5.11- Feel this is more 5.11b/c.
GREAT route. Very easy approach. Break away from the Supercrack Buttress crowds.

By Kat A
From: Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Mar 23, 2009

If you have small hands and small feet you can avoid laybacking on this route, but it's still strenuous.

By ccmski
From: Prescott, AZ
Nov 19, 2009
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

I thought that this route was harder than Formerly Aided- steeper through the crux without any feet. Gear is great the whole way- plug and go.

By Brian Alexander
Apr 21, 2012
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

This was very difficult for me, as are most laybacks at Indian Creek. I used lots of cams from 0.3 to #1 Camalot (especially 0.75), and one #2 Camalot at the top. No need for anything larger, despite what the description says.

By slim
Administrator
Dec 4, 2012
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

time hasn't been too good to this route - it has gotten quite eroded at the lip of the crack. good thumb stacks, but slippery feet.

on a side note, when i was cleaning the gear on the way down, i'm not sure if the flake shifted a little or what, but 8 pieces in a row were absolutely crushed in there. they took a lot of work to remove, and when i removed one of them the whole flake made a loud 'pop' noise.

gear was mostly .5 camalots with a few bigger and a couple smaller.