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Blue Eyed Honkey Jesus 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Hugh Loeffler, 2000
Page Views: 993
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Nov 8, 2010
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Blue-Eyed Honkey Jesus.

Description 

Begin with a few bouldery moves and climb up into the large hueco after clipping the 2nd bolt. Shake out and exit the hueco on the right and climb straight up the face using some smaller holds and pockets. Keep going to gain a good shake before trending up and left to reach an obvious large hold for another shake. The top gets a bit steeper, but the holds improve dramatically to the finish. Nice route with fairly sustained climbing after the hueco.


Location 

2nd bolt line to the left starting on the right side of the crag. Just to the left of Supafly, 5.12a


Protection 

8 bolts, shuts.



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By Mike Anderson
From: Dayton, OH
Nov 10, 2010
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

FYI, this route was given 12c by the FA, and most voters on RRclimbing.com concur with that rating. This is not much different from Herd Mentality IMO.

By Blake Cash
Nov 29, 2010

Yup, and Supafly is 12b, not a.