Blue Condition  WI5

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Type:  Ice, 2 pitches, 300 feet, Grade III Consensus:  WI5 [details] FA:  Unknown Season:  Late December to March Submitted By:  Julian Smith on Jan 2, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Blue Condition in great shape on 2/23.

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Description 

Blue Condition is a nice variation to the second pitch of Kennedy’s Gully. It basically consists of 2 pitches of steeper ice. Approach as for Kennedy’s Gully; i.e. hike back down towards Ouray from the Engineer Pass parking area for a few hundred feet until another gully is on your right. Climb the gully to the base of the ice. A short pitch of WI 3 or so will serve as a starter. Next, slog up the short snow slop above the 1st pitch to reach a small amphitheater that forms the start of the 2nd pitch of Kennedy’s Gully. To your right should be the start of Blue Condition.

Blue Condition is about 100 meters long. Maybe the best approach would be to split it into 2 pitches. Climb up a ways to get past the first curtain and look for a belay, perhaps on the right. Climb a second pitch to a tree at the top of the ice, or continue up into the woods above. Rappel from trees and V-threads. This route should be in for most of the winter. Enjoy.

Protection 

Take 2 ropes, a selection of ice screws, and maybe some rock gear if the ice is thin.

Photos of Blue Condition Slideshow

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Kevin Fox on his way up the first pitch.

Nice variation to the first pitch of Condition Blu...