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Sticking the jug!
Head up the left leaning flake at the start. Either build a belay at a good stance above this (before the route diagonals left and up again) or be very mindful of rope drag. After the stance head up and left to the crux. Then bust right from a nice stance on a technical traverse, crux 2. Make for the overhanging corner and land the big tuna out right and belay on gear.
Starts left around the corner from Washboard at a left leaning flake shared with the regular start of Too Much Fun. Use your choice of the Washboard descents.
Gear to 2.5 inches, including RPs or similar.
BETA PHOTO: Getting through the first crux.
Getting ready for the business on the second pitch...
Mary getting into the classic crux on Blue Chock.
By Ben Sachs
Oct 7, 2009
favorite 5.10 at Moores