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Aspen Alley
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Blue Boy (aka Serendipity) 
Digital Dilemma 
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Blue Boy (aka Serendipity) 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: (?)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 393
Submitted By: James Olsen on Oct 19, 2010
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Description 

Begin just to the left of the open book, go up about 6' and move into open book. Ascend to overhang and work yourself out a little onto right face (the crux - at this point you achieve serendipity). Ascend again between overhang and face to a point above the overhang. The climb now becomes a friction pitch with a few cracks here and there, then rock rolls over toward the anchors (65' elev. change, climb distance longer).


Location 

Serendipity starts out about 30' left of Digital Dilemma in an open book under a rounded overhang. It ends at the Digital Dilemma chains. Rap down from chains.


Protection 

Bring small and medium cams. Good settings in crack at back of open book and under overhang. Enough settings on cracks in friction pitch. Bring long sling to set rope 6' to 8' from anchor if you intend to rap down and belay second from bottom to lessen rope drag.



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By Steven Reneau
Jun 13, 2011

TP regulars tell me this route has also been called Blue Boy, climbed pre-2010.

By Howard Snell
From: Belen, New Mexico
Jun 24, 2013

I agree w/ Bill's comment over on the Staircase to the Patio thread - these two climbs share the same start, but Blue Boy follows a straighter line up to the anchors (thus retains the 5.8).

There is a bolt a ways above the roof on Blue Boy that can be skipped if you want the flavor of the original ascent. Place a C3 at your feet below the bolt and then go for the right facing crack above with another C3 after you pass the bolt.

By Steven Reneau
Oct 20, 2013

Hanger missing on bolt today, but bolt can be slung with a wire for pro.